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  • INSIDE GK
    • Latest Issue
    • NEWS
    • Culinary Pioneers
    • Recipes
    • Dessert Delight
    • Clubhouse Cocktails
    • Wine
    • Health and Wellness
    • Exclusive Chef Interviews
    • PURVEYOR SPOTLIGHT
    • Non for Profits
    • SUBSCRIBE >
      • Galleries
    • Events
    • Press / Media
  • BLOG
  • Awards
  • Certification
  • Contact
  • Wine Reviews

Pan Seared Foie Gras with Spiced Citrus Purée, Tomato and Peach Compote and Red Onion Jam and Brioche Toast

8/2/2022

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Recipe by Chris Reveron, Executive Chef at Bonnie Briar Country Club, Larchmont, New York, USA
Image by Diana DeLucia

Yield: 4

Ingredients

Orange Purée
  • 1 whole Orange (scrubbed clean)
  • 1 stick Cinnamon
  • 1 clove Star Anise
  • 3 cups Sugar
  • 3 cups Water
  • Kosher Salt

Tomato and Peach Compote
  • 3 pounds Cherry Tomatoes (any color, halved)
  • 6 Peaches (about 3/4 pound, peeled, pitted, and diced)
  • 6 Shallots (thinly sliced)
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons Salt
  • 6 Tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil
  •  6 Tablespoons Sugar

Red Onion Jam 
  • 2 Tablespoons Olive Oil
  • 2 pounds Red Nnions (halved and thinly sliced)
  • 1 cup Dry Red Wine
  • 1/3 cup Light Brown Sugar
  • 1 Tablespoon Thyme (fresh picked and chopped)
  • 2 Tablespoons Balsamic Vinegar
  • 1/2 teaspoon Kosher Salt (plus more to taste)
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground Black Pepper (plus more to taste)

Foie Gras
  • 4 slabs of fresh grade “A” Foie Gras,1/2-inch thick (lightly scored in a hashmark pattern on one side
  • Black Pepper (fresh,ground)
  • 1 Tablespoon Chives (fresh,sliced)
  • Coarse Sea Salt Chef Note: I prefer Maldon or Fleur de Sel 

Brioche Toast
  • Brioche Bread (cut into four pieces for toast)

Garnish
  • Micro Flowers
  • Affilia Cress

Preparation

Citrus Purée
Use the tip of a sharp knife to cut several slits in the skin of the orange. Combine the cinnamon, cloves, sugar, and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Reduce the heat to the lowest setting. Add the orange to the pot. Place a clean kitchen towel or a paper towel over the top of the pot, pushing it down until it is in contact with the liquid to keep the orange moist on all sides. Cook until the orange is completely tender, about one hour. Discard cinnamon and star anise. Transfer the orange to a blender and add a cup of cooking syrup. Blend on high speed until completely smooth, adding more syrup as necessary to reach a nice gel-like consistency. Season with a pinch of salt and press through a fine mesh strainer. Set aside. Reserve the orange syrup for later use.

Tomato and  Peach Compote
Preheat the oven to 425°F and set an oven rack in the middle position. Line a baking sheet with heavy-duty aluminum foil. Place the tomatoes, peaches, and shallots on the prepared baking sheet. Add the salt and oil and mix with a rubber spatula until evenly coated. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes (stirring once after 20 minutes to prevent burning and sticking around the edges) until the tomatoes and peaches are soft and start to brown. Transfer the contents of the baking sheet to a small bowl.  Chef Note : Be sure to scrape up all the flavorful juices from the baking sheet. Add the sugar and mash with a rubber spatula or spoon until jammy. Taste and adjust seasoning with more salt or sugar, if necessary. Chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve.

Red Onion Jam
Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add the onions and cook until softened and translucent, eight to ten minutes, stirring occasionally. Add in the wine, sugar, thyme, vinegar, and salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low, and let simmer until liquid thickens and becomes syrupy about one hour, stirring occasionally. Season with additional salt and pepper to taste. Transfer the onion jam to a bowl and let cool, then serve letting onion jam return to room temperature before using. Chef Note: Remainder can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.

Foie Gras
Lay a double layer of paper towels on top of a plate or cutting board and set aside—season foie gras liberally on all sides with salt and pepper. Heat a small skillet over high heat for at least three minutes. Place the foie gras in a skillet scored-side-down. Chef Note: It should immediately start smoking, sizzling, and rendering fat. If it doesn’t, remove and allow the pan to preheat for another one to two minutes. Once all four pieces of foie are in the skillet, cook, swirling pan gently every few seconds until deeply browned and crisp on the first side, about 30 seconds. Use a thin metal spatula to flip foie gras onto the second side and cook for 30 seconds longer. Transfer to paper towel-lined plate and let rest for one minute.

Assembly 

Once all the ingredients are gathered use an offset spatula or spoon to swoosh citrus purée across plate. Place the brioche toast at the tip of the swoosh. Now place the foie gras on top of toast and layer with tomato and peach compote and the red onion jam. Chef Note: Place both toppings offset to one side. Drizzle with a bit of the reserved cooking syrup.


Wine Match

Domaine Weinbach Cuvee Laurence Gewurztraminer

Foie Gras is one of my top choices when I go out to dine. Pairing this preparation with a nice Gewurztraminer, in my opinion, is a great match. The nose hits you with hints of grapefruit, orange, and spices, along with some floral hints. The sweetness from the wine is going to help with the balancing of the fats in the Foie Gras. The spiced citrus puree is a nice touch that compliments both, the wine and foie gras. 

~ Chris Reveron
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Picture
The Bonnie Briar Clubhouse, Image courtesy Bonnie Briar Country Club
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BLACK PEPPER MAPLE PORK BELLY WITH  TRES LECHES CORNBREAD, APPLE PAVE, SMOKED APPLE CREMA AND CHERRY BUTTER

7/16/2022

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Recipe by Christine Hazel, Executive Chef and Food Network Chopped Champion at
​ Huntingdon Valley Country Club, Huntingdon, Pennsylvania, USA
​Yield: 5 portions

Ingredients

Pork Belly
  • 3 pounds Pork Belly (skin on and scored)
  • 3 Shallots (rough chopped)
  • 1 Carrot (peeled and rough chopped)
  • 1 Celery Stick (rough chopped)
  • 4 Garlic Cloves (roughly crushed)
  • 5 sprigs Fresh Thyme
  • 1 Bay Leaf
  • 2 quarts Hard Apple Cider 
  • 1 quart Chicken Stock

Glaze
  • Cracked Black Pepper
  • ½ Cup Maple Syrup
  • 1 teaspoon Dijon Mustard
  • 1 cup Reduced Braising Liquid
  • Salt and Pepper

Smoked Apple Crema
  • 6 Granny Smith Apples
  • Cherrywood Wood Chips
  • ½ cup Heavy Cream
  • 1 cup Bourbon

Paprika Oil
  • 1 cup Blended Oil
  • 4 teaspoons Ground Paprika

Tres Leches Cornbread
  • 1 cup All-purpose Flour
  • 1 cup Yellow Cornmeal
  • 2/3 cup Granulated Sugar 
  • 3.5 teaspoons Baking Powder
  • 1 teaspoon Kosher Salt
  • 1 Egg
  • 1 cup Milk
  • 1/3 cup Vegetable Oil
​
Tres Leches Mixture
  • 1 cup Milk
  • 1 cup Heavy Cream
  • 1 cup Sweetened Condensed Milk
  • 1 Tablespoon Thyme (chopped)
  • 1 Tablespoon Garlic (minced)
  • 2 Tablespoon Bourbon
  • 1 cup Bacon Fat (for searing)
​
Apple Pave
  • 15 Granny Smith Apples
  • 2 cups cornstarch (as needed)
  • Salt and Black Pepper (to Taste)
  • 1 pound Butter (melted)
  • Pastry Brush

Cherry Butter
  • 2 pounds Cherries (pitted)
  • 1/3 cup Granulated Sugar
​
Garnish
  • Bull’s Blood Microgreens
  • Pickled Mustard Seeds

Preparation

Pork Belly 
Season the pork, then place it on a large roasting tray. Place the shallots, carrot, celery, herbs, and spices over the pork. Pour the cider and chicken stock over the pork. Cover with foil and braise at 300 F for 3-4 hours until tender. 
Remove the pork from the braising liquid. Place on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Cover with another sheet of parchment paper and top with another sheet pan. Place a weight on top of the sheet tray and place in the refrigerator for 2 hours.  
Glaze: Strain the braising liquid and reduce it down to 1 cup. 
Add the maple syrup and Dijon mustard. Season with salt and freshly cracked black pepper. Set aside. 

Fry the pork belly at 350 F until golden brown and warmed through. Coat with maple-black pepper glaze, then cut the pork into 3-inch squares.  

Smoked Apple Crema
Cut and core the apples into wedges. Place the cherrywood chips into a full sized hotel pan. Place the sliced apples into a perforated half hotel pan. Ignite cherrywood chips and create smoke. Cover with foil. Relight every ten minutes for an hour.  
Place the apples into a saucepan with the bourbon and simmer for 20 minutes.  
Puree in a Vitamix until smooth. Add the heavy cream and season with salt.  

Paprika Oil
Place the oil and paprika into a saucepot and bring to a simmer. After 3 minutes, turn off the heat and allow it to steep for 10 minutes. Let cool. Strain through a chinois lined with cheesecloth. 

Tres Leches Cornbread
Mix all dry ingredients in a bowl. Mix all wet ingredients in separate bowl. Gradually add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients.  
Lightly grease a baking pan with butter. Pour the batter into the pan and bake at 325F until golden brown and cooked through. (Approximately 35 minutes).  

Tres Leches Mixture
Mix all the ingredients in a bowl.
After the tres leches cornbread has cooled, take a toothpick and poke holes in the cornbread to create room for the tres leches mixture.
Pour the mixture over the cornbread and allow to soak for 3-4 hours.
Remove the cornbread from the pan and cut into 3-inch squares.
Heat a nonstick pan to medium heat, then coat the bottom of the pan with the bacon fat. Sear the cornbread on all sides until golden brown. 

Apple Pave
Line a baking pan with parchment paper and coat with a nonstick spray. 
Quarter the apples. Slice thinly on a mandoline keeping the skin on.
Layer the apples facing one direction and overlapping (covering the entire surface area of the pan).
Lightly brush the melted butter to coat all the apples. Season with salt and pepper and lightly sprinkle with cornstarch—Layer the apples facing 180 degrees opposite. (creating a patchwork effect). Completely cover the surface area of the pan. Season with Salt and Pepper and lightly sprinkle with cornstarch.
Chef Note: Repeat these steps until the top of the pan is reached. 

Press down on top of the layers and place in the freezer with a weight on top. Freeze for an hour.
Next bake at 325F for 2 hours. Remove from oven. Cut into triangles. Sprinkle with cornstarch and fry at 350F until golden brown.  

Cherry Butter
Pour the sugar over the cherries and let the natural juices come out for approximately 30 minutes.

Puree the cherries and sugar in a Vitamix until smooth. Simmer for 15 minutes. Let Cool. 

Assembly
Using a spoon, place ¼ cup cherry butter in the bottom of the plate using a circular motion and place the cornbread in the center. Glaze the pork belly and set it on top of cornbread. Lean the apple pave on the side of the cornbread. Put the smoked crema into a piping bag and dollop around the pork. Top with Bull’s Blood Microgreens. 
 
Wine Match 

Spindler Pfalz Riesling Heinrich Spindler - Schatzi Wines 

Many moderately priced Rieslings can be extremely pleasant but lack depth and substance. This is not one of them. It’s rich and deep, fresh and incisive, with electric acidity. The Musenhang vineyard is a cool site high on a slope in the foothills of the Haardt Mountains of Southwestern Germany, where the vines are planted on limestone and sandstone.

~Schatzi Wines
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Picture
The Rock wall at the 11th green at Huntingdon Valley Country Club. I
mage courtesy Huntingdon Valley Country Club
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Black Forest Whiskey Sour

7/3/2022

2 Comments

 
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Recipe by Christine Hazel, Food Network Chopped Champion and Executive Chef at Huntingdon Valley Country Club, Huntingdon Valley, Pennsylvania, USA
This drink was inspired by my grandfather Bill Hazel.  He loved Crown Royal and taught me how to make the perfect Whiskey Sour. ~ Christine Hazel

Yield: 1

Ingredients
  • 6 Cherries (pits removed and halved)
  • 1.5 ounces Crown Royal
  • 0.75 ounces Lemon Juice
  • 0.75 ounces Simple Syrup
  • 1/8 teaspoon 10x Sugar
  • 1 Egg White
  • Chocolate and  Vanilla Meringue Cookies (see recipe)

Chocolate Caviar
  • ​200 milliliters Dark Crème De Cocoa liquor
  • 2.5 milliliters Agar Agar
  • 1 quart Olive Oil

Preparation 

Chocolate Caviar 
Pour the olive oil into an airtight container and place in the freezer.
Pour the dark crème de cocao into a small saucepan.
Add the  agar agar to the crème de cocao. 
Place the pan over medium heat and bring to a boil.  Stir frequently.
Lower the heat and simmer the mixture for 60 seconds.
Remove the pot from the heat and remove the chilled oil from the freeze.
Use a syringe to suck up the cocao-agar mixture.
Drizzle droplets of the mixture over the surface of the oil.  They will form tiny spears immediately.
Place a filter over a plastic container and pour the oil and spheres into the filter. The oil will pass leaving the speres in the filter.

Chocolate and Vanilla Meringue Cookies 
Place in a food processor and pulse until crumbled.
Rim glass with orange slice to moisten.

Black Forest Whiskey Sour
Muddle the cherries with simple syrup.
Add bourbon and lemon juice.
Shake 12 times.
Add the egg white and powdered sugar. Shake 20 times until extra frothy.
Fine strain the cocktail into glass.
Garnish the chocolate caviar on top of the froth of the cocktail.
Roll rim of glass until coated with meringue crumbles.   
​
Serve immediately and enjoy!

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#9 with the Huntingdon Valley Clubhouse. Image courtesy Huntingdon Valley Country Club
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The Club at Carlton Woods receives Golf Kitchen® Certification of Culinary Excellence

6/23/2022

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Left: Wes Tyler, Executive Chef Right: Steve Salzman, General Manager and Chief Operating Officer
June 23, 2022

Stamford, Connecticut — The Club at Carlton Woods, The Woodlands, Texas, has earned the rigorous Golf Kitchen Certification of Culinary Excellence. Wes Tyler, Executive Chef, and General Manager / Chief Operating Officer Steve Salzman received the new tapestry plaque designed by Souza Enterprises this month. 

"Wes Tyler, 34, and his culinary team at The Club at Carlton Woods have proven how well a young team can develop effective strategies to fulfill the desires of the membership and guests at the club," said Diana DeLucia, President of Golf Kitchen. 

The Club at Carlton Woods is very proud of its short history and is humbled by its accolades. Since 2013, The Club at Carlton Woods has been honored with receiving the Distinguished Club of the World recognition. In 2016, The Club was recognized as a Platinum Club of America, as voted on by General Managers and Club Presidents across the United States, and now the Golf Kitchen Certification of Culinary Excellence. The club was recently announced as the 2023-2027 location for The Chevron Championship, the 1st LPGA Major Championship each season.

"Our team at The Club at Carlton Woods is humbled and honored to receive this outstanding award and certification of Culinary Excellence from the Golf Kitchen Organization. We are thankful to be a part of the process and will continue to help set the standard for club kitchens across the nation," stated Wes Tyler. 

The Golf Kitchen Certification of Culinary Excellence is based on a rigid set of criteria and a club's ability to produce an exemplary product, as evaluated by an independent review of the entire food and beverage operation. As part of the process, clubs must apply to be considered for certification, followed by an on-site evaluation and a series of interviews with the culinary team and management.

DeLucia believes that club dining rooms will become the "go-to" restaurants of the future, an observation made even more likely in the era of COVID. "With more younger people coming back to private clubs, in particular younger couples and families joining clubs and moving into golf communities, a club's culinary offerings are increasingly important," she said.

For additional information about Golf Kitchen or the Certification of Culinary Excellence, access the website at www.golfkitchen.com.

                                                                                                  *****

About Golf Kitchen
Golf Kitchen was founded in 2014 by Diana DeLucia, an internationally recognized culinary writer/photographer, to recognize private golf and country clubs for the quality of their culinary offerings. The Golf Kitchen portfolio includes a bi-annual magazine, books, unique culinary events, and an annual program, the Golf Kitchen Culinary Excellence Awards which is held at GlenArbor Golf Club in Bedford Hills, New York.
​
About Souza Enterprises
For over 40 years, Souza Enterprises the leader of Hand Embroidered Bullion Blazer Crests and Tapestries.,has provided Custom designed high-end Branded Gifts and Awards to the Golf Industry and Fortune 500 Companies around the World.
                                                                                                   
Media Contact: 
Diana DeLucia
Golf Kitchen LLC
diana@golfkitchen.com
860 406 1782
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Baby Spanish Octopus Ceviche with Pickled Mustard Seeds, Our Garden Pico, Compressed Watermelon, Crispy Plantain and Citrus Lace

6/14/2022

1 Comment

 
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Recipe by Anthony Capua, Executive Chef at Sycamore Hills Golf Club, Fort Wayne, Indiana, USA
Image by Diana DeLucia

Serves 2

Ingredients

Baby Octopus
  • 1- pound Baby Octopus 
  • 4 sprigs of Rosemary
  • 2 sprigs of Thyme
  • 2-ounces Spanish Olive Oil 
  • 1-ounce Salted Water 
  • Salt (to taste)

Garden Pico
  • 5 Garden Heirloom Tomatoes 
  • ½ Red Onion
  • 9 Cilantro Leaves
  • 1 Lime (juiced)
  • 1 Lemon (juiced)
  • 1 medium Jalapeno(sliced)
  • ¼ ounce Spanish Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Pickled Mustard Seeds
  • ½ cup White Wine Vinegar
  • ½ cup Water
  • 3 Tablespoons Sugar
  • ½ teaspoon Kosher Salt
  • ⅓ cups Yellow Mustard Seeds
  • 1 small to medium-sized Shallot (thinly sliced into rings)

Crispy Plantain
  • 1 whole Plantain
  • Salt and Pepper (to taste)
  • 2 cups Canola Oil (for deep frying)

Compressed Watermelon
  • 1 small Seedless Watermelon
  • ½ cup Rice Wine Vinegar
  • 8 Cilantro Leaves
  • ¼ cup White Cane Sugar

Garnish
  • Edible Flowers and Sorrels (The Chef's Garden)

Preparation

Baby Octopus
Fill a medium-sized pot with 16 quarts of water, and place on medium-high heat. Once the water comes to a boil, add salt, place the octopus in the pot for five minutes, and remove and place it into an ice bath. Once the octopus is chilled, remove and strain for up to 10 mins; start to remove tentacles and place into a sous-vide bag with rosemary, thyme, and one ounce of Spanish olive oil. Sous-vide the octopus at 134 F for up to 90 minutes, remove it from the sous-vide bag, and place it in an ice bath. Once the octopus has cooled down, place the octopus on a board, cut ¼-inch medallions, and set it aside.

Garden Pico
Slice tomatoes into quarters and place them into a bowl with the diced onion, jalapenos, and chopped cilantro leaves. Squeeze the lime and lemon juice into a bowl with the extra virgin olive oil. Mix, then set aside. 

Pickled Mustard Seeds
Combine the white wine vinegar, water, sugar, and salt in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer, and then stir in mustard seeds. Turn heat down to medium-low, cook until the seeds are tender, and look plump for about 30 minutes. Stir in shallots and remove the saucepan from heat. Let the mustard seeds cool to room temperature, then transfer to a jar with a lid and refrigerate. Chef Note: When stored in an airtight jar and refrigerated, pickled mustard seeds will keep well for two months.

Crispy Plantain
Peel the whole plantain and slice about five inches on a mandolin, deep fry for about three to four minutes until crispy and the plantain holds like a plank. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to finish.

Compressed Watermelon
Peel the skin off the watermelon. With a melon-baller, scoop 20-30 balls of watermelon and place them into a petite sous-vide bag. Take the rice wine vinegar, sugar, and cilantro and place in a small metal bowl, then whisk until the sugar has dissipated into the vinegar. Place in the refrigerator for up to one hour to chill, remove from the bag, and strain the liquid. Put the liquid into a sous-vide bag and pour it over the watermelon with a vacuum sealer. Remove air from the bag, so the liquid goes into the watermelon, making its color almost ruby.


Assembly

Take the octopus and place them in three piles on the left side of a coupe bowl. Break the plantain strip into three pieces, put them on top of the octopus, and garnish with four small piles of mustard seeds. Then spread pico over three stacks and four compressed watermelon balls and flowers. Finish the plate with citrus lace throughout the dish and leave the right side of the plate for negative space.

Wine Match 

Domaine Zind Humbrecht Gewürztraminer Alsace Grand Cru Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain

"I have paired the octopus ceviche with an acidic and aromatic wine. Gewürtzraminer, a floral bouquet, and hints of spice add an extra level of depth to the wine and help to balance the acidity of the ceviche dressing."

~ Alfredo Hildebrandt, Assistant General Manager with a sophisticated flair for fine wines and spirits. 
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Hole number 7 at Sycamore Hills Golf Club, Fort Wayne, Indiana, USA.
Jack Nicklaus Design \ Image by Jim Mandeville, courtesy Sycamore Hills Golf Club 
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5. GOLF KITCHEN: THE CULINARY PIONEERS

6/3/2022

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Panoramic view of hole 12 and 14.
Image by Joann Dost courtesy Royal Isabela Golf Club

royal isabela golf club: 2012

Traveling to Puerto Rico for the first time in 2012 was a great experience. Why had I not done this before?!! Landing in San Juan was a delightful occasion. I specifically remember how difficult it was to find this golf club. The town of Isabela shows no signs of golf let alone an 18-hole golf course with gorgeous Casitas overlooking the ocean. And yet after driving all over the town, I discovered where the entrance was, behind a little tiny house that you would never think to look. Behind this gate, the journey to the Royal Isabela clubhouse, designed by Hart Howerton, was spectacular. 

I was greeted by a wonderful team of staff and then checked into my Casita, which was complete with a stunning ocean view and double rain shower heads in the bathroom! Family dinner was the first agenda, and it was an absolute delight. Here I was sitting with the owners Stanley and Charlie Pasarell, their members and guests, and coincidentally a fellow Connecticut resident from New Canaan, sharing stories over a divine dinner. One thing that captured my memory was the outdoor lighting that allowed for a full view of the beautiful stars in the night sky. I appreciated this style of dinner and it was a great welcome for visitors to come out of their shells and get to know perfect strangers in a unique setting. 

Stanley and Charlie Pasarell, renowned Puerto Rican tennis players in the 60s, later found their way to golf and envisioned and built this property. Stanley is a warm soul, immediately noticeable, and he has rescued over 100 dogs from the neighborhoods and delivered farm produce from the expansive farm at Royal Isabela to the locals in need. Charlie, I learned first hand was a dear friend of Arthur Ashe, and to this day I have not published that interview because I am still trying to convey Charlie's emotions on paper without breaking down in tears. His bond and story is unforgettable. Everything about this property had an element of kindness and responsibility for the game of golf, the preservation of the land and the local community.  

Stanley and Charlie hired ​José Carles Fabrigas while he was a caddie at the club. They didn't have a kitchen at that time and Jose said he would make his famous hamburgers and it went from there. I still have not to this day had one of those hamburgers!!! 
​
I am pleased to share these experiences and my interview and relationship with ​José Carles Fabregas and their family which has continued to grow over the years. ~ Diana Delucia
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​Image left: José Carles Fabregas competes in the 2018 Golf Kitchen Punta Mita Chef playoff.
​Right: Showing of the catch of the day in Boquerón, Puerto Rico. 

An interview with ​José carles fabregas

​José Carles Fabregas is one of the young chefs that stole my heart in 2012 when I was fortunate to be writing a feature story at Royal Isabela Golf Club in Isabela, Puerto Rico. José and his wife Magda have had their share of challenges over the last ten years, and their story is nothing short of remarkable. ~ Diana DeLucia

GK: We hear that you were a great junior player in Puerto Rico. How did you become involved in golf?

When I was eight years old, I rode in the cart when my father played golf. When I became more interested in the game, my father asked Daniel Santiago, the best player on the golf course, to teach me to play. Daniel even came to live with us for eight years. He was like a brother to me. In 2003, I became Puerto Rico Junior Golf Champion. I represented Puerto Rico six times for six years in a row.
 
I traveled to the United States to try out for golf mini-tours, but it was too expensive for me to sustain. I quit playing golf when I was 18. My father and mother got a divorce, and it was very hard for me. I could no longer concentrate on the golf.
 
GK: When did your culinary interest begin?
 
When I was in the United States, I visited my cousin, Nagib Sued, a chef instructor at Le Cordon Bleu [College of Culinary Arts] in Atlanta, and became quite interested in his work. The culinary scene at the school inspired me.
 
When I returned to Puerto Rico from the U.S, I began studying accounting. I was living alone and didn't have a lot of money. I started making hamburgers, creating my recipes, and selling them at a street stand. When my burger became famous and I began to make money, I quit studying accounting and enrolled in culinary school with the encouragement of my father and my now-wife, Magda. I continued to make my hamburgers while at culinary school, and then I started to get requests for catering. I was not an expert, but I never say no! I always try to take every opportunity that comes my way.
 
After I finished culinary school, I continued to sell my burgers and added chicken and steak kebabs. A restaurant owner offered me a job, which I accepted, but I quit after seven or eight months. I went back to my catering and my burgers. Many people were also hiring me to cook for them in their homes.  
 
My cooking improved, and I was still playing golf on the side, but more for fun. While playing in a tournament, I met Miguel Suárez Igartúa, Director of Golf at Royal Isabela. He asked me to work with him as a caddie. And, I said yes, because I never say no!
 
I was the first caddie at Royal Isabela. There was no restaurant on site at that time. One day, everyone was playing golf, and they were getting hungry. I offered to make burgers for Stanley and Charlie Pasarell, the owners. After that, they allowed me to cook in addition to my caddie job. I was delighted.

GK: How did you land the job as sous chef?
 
When Stanley and Charlie were interviewing for the position of executive chef of the new restaurant, the first one to interview was Alex Yates, who was the executive chef at Leverick Bay Resort in the British Virgin Islands. He needed someone to help him cook for Stanley and Charlie as a part of his interview. 
 
Alex got the job and immediately hired me as sous chef. I worked for Alex for one year, and it was the best experience of my life. He is a visionary who taught me a lot about classic cuisine. Nobody knows this, but Alex told me that he would train me to take over this kitchen eventually. He even took me to New York to meet Dave Pasternack at Esca, where I worked in the kitchen. Dave likes to visit Royal Isabela, and we often went fishing.
 
GK: When did you get the executive chef position here?
 
Alex had some personal problems and had to leave suddenly. Stanley and Charlie were a little worried about offering me that position, but Stanley did so regardless. Everything happened so fast for me, and I enjoyed creating new recipes for the members and guests. 

Everything here is organic and natural. We have a huge farm on the property. The farm allows me to have the very best ingredients available at all times. Our proximity to the ocean gives me the very best fresh catches of the day. I can even take things off the golf course and use them in my recipes.
 
GK: How much time do you spend creating your menus each day? I notice you change them daily.
 
I have a system in place; I have all my recipes documented, except for my hamburger! That is my secret. I create new recipes every day, and I might change two or three ingredients depending on availability and the season. Thinking and planning take me two or three hours every day, but I never notice the time because I love my job and work. I also allow my cooks to become involved in the planning and make some decisions so they can feel good about their job. We are a team.

GK: What are your plans for the future?
 
I want to stay here, and I want to keep learning. There will never be another place where I have my garden, the ocean, and the best fresh fish right at my fingertips.
 
GK: What are your experiences working with the Pasarell family?
 
It is a privilege. They are very nice people who want me to improve. They always talk about the good things I do, but they will also tell me if something is wrong. That is what I like; I need honest feedback from my guests and my bosses. They are my teachers.
 
Updated Interview with José Carles Fabregas - February 2016
 
After we spoke in 2013, I hired my old friend Edwin Roberto Valle for the executive sous chef position. Roberto studied with me in culinary school, and then I worked for him in 2008 for eight months in a little restaurant in Cabo Rojo. When Roberto arrived at Royal Isabela, it brought my kitchen an even more positive feeling. Roberto knows how I cook and how I like my dishes to go out to my guests. He respects my work and everything I do.

GK: You have had some extreme challenges to overcome in the past few years, tell us about that. 

In July 2013, my wife and I received the news that we would be parents. Our daughter, Valentina Carles Toro, was born on February 26, 2014. On October 31, 2014, at eight months of age, Valentina was diagnosed with cancer, Neuroblastoma. I think it was the most disturbing news a parent can receive. In Hima Caguas Hospital in Puerto Rico, Valentina had surgery to remove an eight-ounce tumor; the Doctors thought she would be fine; however, after many tests and biopsies, they found high-risk Neuroblastoma cancer in the bones. Valentina went through a standard protocol for a high-risk Neuroblastoma cancer patient.
 
Valentina has had ten operations, six cycles of chemotherapy over six months, two bone marrow auto transplants, and 12 rounds of radiotherapy. We lived in the hospital for 11 months. I have to thank my second family, Stanley and Charlito Pasarell, Edwin Perez, and Juaquin Lopez, for all the support during this challenging process.
 
In January 2015, my wife and I got the news that we were going to be parents for the second time. Daniella Carles Toro was born on September 13, 2015. This was the best thing for my wife and family because we had to be strong for all that was coming with Valentina's treatment.
 
In September 2015, Valentina received every exam to detect cancer, and everything was clean. This experience that we are going through has shown us that we have to believe in Faith and to be positive at all times. 
 
"When Jose and his wife Magda became pregnant, she could not be exposed to the radiation treatments that Valentina needed to receive. Jose held Valentina in his arms through her chemotherapy and many other treatments. Valentina will be two on February 26, 2016, and she is happy, strong, beautiful, and very active. Valentina inherited her dad's fortitude, resiliency, and determination to live." ~ Stanley Pasarell
 
GK: You created a fundraiser for Valentina's treatment; please tell us about it.
 
On February 7, 2015, 25 top chefs in Puerto Rico hosted a private dinner for Valentina. It was initially for 100 people. We sold out in one day! The following day we sold another 200 tickets, so we decided to have a 300 people dinner to raise funds for Valentina's Treatment. This dinner was so impressive; I could really see the hearts that the chefs and my friends and guests have. 
 
I want to thank the Intercontinental Hotel of Isla Verde for the donation of the hotel's ballroom. We called the top wine imports of the island and every company to donate wine for this cause, the same with food suppliers. The food and wine industry came together for this memorable night. ​

GK: You are a great golfer; tell us how you are playing now?
 
In 2015, I didn't play much golf because of everything that was going on with my daughter. However, I can still beat my boss Stanley if he puts some money on the table. I know I will be back playing tournament golf in the future!
​
GK: Fishing?
 
I choose to entertain myself with "fishing". We had our boat on the ground in our backyard for years, and one day I began to fix it.
 
Fishing helped me with the despair we were going through. I thought that if I caught something, maybe I could bring the catch to the restaurant and show my guests. 
 
The funny part of the first day I went fishing, I went with my sous chef to look for some fish, we went for three hours without any fish, and then my sous chef got one little blue runner fish, and we started celebrating because we got a fish! He was celebrating so much that the fish got out of the hook and jumped back into the water. You had to have seen our faces. It has been eight months since that day, and we have caught many large, great fish for the restaurant. I go every week with my sous chef or my dishwasher. With my sous chef Andreas Gonzalez, I go fishing, and with my dishwasher Roberto Ortiz  I go to catch some Spiny Lobster or Conch. 
 
The good thing about serving the fish we catch is that you can taste and feel the freshness of the product. It's the same with our organic farm; you feel that, and you get all the nutrients from the product.
 
I don't catch everything I serve in the restaurant, but I hope one day to do that. It's my new goal, but I believe in and trust my local fisherman. Ever since I became interested in fishing, I have wanted to learn more about what the ocean has to serve up for my recipes. I think it is very important to educate people about how abundant the ocean is and what it can give us if we take care of it.
 
GK: You were recognized with some awards 2013-2015.

Yes, here is a list of my awards and some special events I participated in since we last spoke. 

2015 - Royal Isabela 4th July BBQ Challenge Peoples Choice                                             
2015 -Guisando la Feria Culinary Competition - Silver Medal                                            
 2015- Festival Porta Del Sol - Silver Medal                                                                             
2015 - Qualified for the Final of the Puerto Rico Culinary Team Competition (Top 10)                                        
2015 - Participated in the Privilege Dinner of the Best 20 Chefs of Puerto Rico                                       
2014 - De Norte a Sur Cooking Competition Silver Medal                                                  
2014 - Participated in the Privilege Dinner of the Best 20 Chefs of Puerto Rico                                       
2014 - Ex Alumno Distinguido de la Escuela Hotelera Award                                               
 2014 - Festival Porta del Sol - Bronze Medal                                                                 
2011 - Present - Wente Vineyards Wine Tasting Dinner by Erick
2014 - Present - James Beard Award winner Dave Pasternack's Wine Tasting Dinner             
2013 - De Norte a Sur Cooking Competition _ Gold Medal                                                   
2013 - Saborea Puerto Rico Peoples Choice Award                                                             
2013 - Golf Club World Behind The Gates Book by Diana DeLucia                                  
4 Signatures Recipes and Chef full biography
2013 - Chef Puerto Rico New Promise Award by Food & Wine          
                                          
GK: Tell us about the special Dinner that you hold every year.
 
For the last two years, Royal Isabela and I have hosted a Dinner with Dave Pasternack called The Whisperer Dinner. We make this Dinner for the charity of el Pastillo Conservation Trust. He has been great to me. We go fishing before Dinner and what we catch is what we serve.

* A new update will appear later in this book collection and Jose's story will take a few more twists and turns.
* I try to keep each chef's interview as close to their own words and language as possible to show their character. 
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STUFFED QUAIL WITH APPLE AND CELERIAC PUREE, CELERIAC CONFIT,CRISP WALNUTS AND LENTIL PAPER

5/8/2022

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Recipe by Wade Murphy, Executive Chef at The Lodge at Doonbeg (2012 for Golf Club World, Behind the Gates)
Wade Murphy currently operates 1826 Adare in County Limerick
(The Lodge at Doonbeg is now Trump International Golf Links)
Yield: 4

Ingredients

Stuffed Quail
  • 4 Boned Quails (wing and thigh bone left on)
  • Quail Stuffing (see recipe)
  • 1 cup Duck Fat
  • 4 medium Sprigs Rosemary (fresh)
  • 2 ounces Unsalted Butter
  • Sea Salt and White Pepper (freshly ground)

Quail Stuffing
  • 1 Tablespoon Extra Virgin Olive Oil
  • 6 ounces Cépe Mushrooms (fresh)
  • Salt and Black pepper (freshly ground)
  • 6 ounces Chicken Meat (diced)
  • 3 ounces Quail Meat (diced)
  • 1/2 teaspoon Pink Curing Salt
  • 5-1/2 Tablespoons Double Cream
  • 1 whole Egg and 1 Egg Yolk
  • 1-1/2 ounces Foie Gras (diced)

Celeriac Confit 
  • 1-1/2 pounds Celeriac
  • 10-1/2 ounces Goose Fat
  • 3 sprigs of Thyme (fresh picked)
  • 1 clove Garlic

Celeriac and Apple Purée
  • 4 ounces Unsalted Butter
  • 2 pounds Celeriac (peeled and 3/4 inch diced)
  • 8 ounces Rooster Potatoes (peeled and 3/4 inch diced)
  • 3 Golden Delicious Apples (peeled, cored and 3/4 inch diced)
  • 4 Tablespoons Apple Juice (fresh)
  • 4 Tablespoons Double Cream
  • Salt and Black Pepper (freshly ground)

Maple Candied Walnuts
  • 2 Tablespoons Butter (melted)
  • 2 teaspoons Maple Syrup
  • 8 ounces  Walnuts (peeled)
  • 1 teaspoon Sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon Salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon Cinnamon (ground)
  • 1/2 teaspoon Nutmeg

Lentil Paper
  • 1 teaspoon Olive Oil
  • 5 ounces Red Lentils (soaked overnight and drained)
  • 3 Tablespoons Shallots (chopped)
  • 1 Tablespoon Cider Vinegar
  • 4-1/4 cups Water
  • Salt and Black Pepper (freshly ground)
  • 8 ounces Potatoes (baked and scooped out)
  • 2 Tablespoons Cornstarch
  • 2 to 3 Tablespoons Water

Garnish
  • Micro Celery Leaves
  • Apple (julienned and cut at the last minute to prevent browning)
  • Deep-fried Julienned Celeriac
  • Game Jus

Preparation

Chef Note:
The quail should be stuffed a day in advance.

Quail Stuffing
Heat the oil in a pan and sauté the mushrooms until they turn golden brown. Season with salt and pepper and set aside to cool. Mix the chicken and quail together. Dilute the curing salt and add to the chicken and quail. Mix thoroughly and refrigerate overnight. Transfer the chicken and quail mix to a chilled bowl and stir in the mushrooms. Whisk together the double cream and eggs and mix into the stuffing. Gently fold in the foie gras, taking care to leave it as chunky as possible.

Stuffed Quail
Fill the boned quail with the stuffing. Place each stuffed quail, 1/4 cup duck fat and rosemary sprig into a vacuum-pack or sous vide bag and seal on medium to high pressure. Preheat a water bath circulator to 185 degrees F. Place the quail in the water bath and cook for 45 minutes. Remove from the bath and leave at room temperature for 20 minutes. Refresh in ice water for 20 minutes. Just before serving, remove quail from bags and sear the quail in a pan with a little bit of unsalted butter. Finish the quail in the oven at 375 degrees F for 8
minutes.

Celeriac Confit
Peel the celeriac. Cut the celeriac into 1/2-by-1- inch strips, allowing 3 per portion. Reserve the remainder for garnish. Combine strips, goose fat, thyme and garlic in a saucepan, and simmer slowly under the celeriac is tender. Cool and refrigerate. Julienne the remaining celeriac. Deep-fry in clean oil, dry under heat lamps and season.

Celeriac and Apple Purée
Melt the butter in a pot over medium heat. Add the celeriac, potatoes and apples. Sauté the vegetables, stirring occasionally, until they begin to soften, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add the apple juice and tightly cover the pot. Simmer over low heat for 30 minutes until the vegetables are very tender. If the vegetables begin to burn or they seem dry, add another few Tablespoons of apple juice or some water. When the vegetables are cooked, add the cream and cook for 1 more minute. Transfer the mixture to a blender and purée. Season with salt and pepper and reserve until needed.

Maple Candied Walnuts
Mix together the melted butter and the maple syrup and coat the walnuts with the mixture. Combine the dry ingredients, sprinkle over the walnuts and toss to coat them evenly. Place walnuts on a baking tray and space well. Bake at 375 degrees F for 5 minutes.

Lentil Paper
Heat the olive oil in a pot over medium-high heat. Add the lentils and toast. Add the shallots, reduce the heat to medium low and cook until the shallots have softened. Add the cider vinegar, 4-1/4 cups water, and salt and pepper to taste. Reduce the liquid until it has almost evaporated. Blend the lentils with the cooked potato and cornstarch. Add 2 to 3 Tablespoons water and mix until blended. Chef Note: Don’t over blend the mixture as you want to see small chunks of the red lentils.

Assembly

Warm the celeriac confit and the celeriac puree. Place 2 pieces of the confit in a warm bowl. Add 4 drops of the puree randomly around the base. Place 3 candied walnuts on the plate. Carve the stuffed quail (reheated until hot, if necessary) and place it neatly on the plate. Garnish with the micro celery leaves, apple, fried celeriac and lentil paper. Spoon some jus on to the dish and serve.

Wine Match

Chablis Première Cru, Vallions, 2009

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Picture
The Lodge at Doonbeg, Country Clare, Ireland
Image by Patrick O'brien, Kiawah Partners
(The Lodge at Doonbeg is now Trump International Golf Links)
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FOIE GRAS TERRINE WITH PINEAPPLE AND RUM-SOAKED RAISINS

5/8/2022

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Recipe by Wade Murphy, Executive Chef at The Lodge at Doonbeg (2012 for Golf Club World, Behind the Gates)
Wade Murphy currently operates 1826 Adare in County Limerick
(The Lodge at Doonbeg is now Trump International Golf Links)
Yield: 8

Ingredients

Foie Gras Terrine
  • 1 (2-pound) lobe Grade A Foie Gras
  • 1 Tablespoon Sea Salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon Pink Curing Salt
  • 1 teaspoon Sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon  White Pepper (freshly ground)
  • 1 teaspoon Madeira
  • 1 teaspoon Port
  • 1 teaspoon Sauternes

Rum-Soaked Raisins
  • 3/4 cup Raisins
  • 1 cup good-quality Rum

Pineapple Compote
  • 1 medium Pineapple (fresh)
  • 1/2 cup Sugar
  • 1-1/4 cups Pineapple Juice (fresh)
  • 1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice (fresh squeezed)
  • 10 Black Peppercorns (toasted and crushed)
  • 2 Tablespoons Rum

Pineapple Curd
  • 1-1/2 cups Pineapple Purée (smooth consistency)
  • 3/4 cup Sugar
  • 3 Egg Yolks
  • 2 Tablespoons Cornstarch
  • 2 Tablespoons Unsalted Butter (room temperature)
  • Pinch salt

Pineapple Foam
  • 2-1/8 cups Pineapple Juice (fresh)
  • 2 teaspoons Sugar Syrup
  • 1-2 spoons of MSK Hy-foamer

Garnish
  • Micro Coriander Leaves
  • Brioche Bread (cut into circles and toasted)

Preparation

Foie Gras Terrine
Bring the foie gras to room temperature. Separate the lobes and remove any of the larger veins from the big lobe of foie gras using a small pointed knife or a tweezers. Pass the foie gras through a fine sieve and sprinkle generously with sea salt, pink salt, sugar and white pepper. Place into a vacuum sealed or sous vide bag and add Madeira, Port and Sauternes. Seal the bag and marinate in the refrigerator for 24 hours.

After 24 hours, place the bag of foie gras into a water bath that has been preheated to 140 degrees. Cook for 10 minutes and place in ice water. Before the foie has completely cooled, remove it from the bag and again pass it through a fine sieve. Whip the foie gras to again emulsify it. Line a tray with greaseproof paper and transfer the foie gras from the bowl to the paper. Place a sheet of acetate or plastic wrap on top and smooth out the mix to about a 1/2-inch thickness. Chill for at least 3 hours. Slice the terrine into 1-by-3-inch rectangles or any
desired shape. Keep the trimmings for other use.

Rum-Soaked Raisins
Combine the raisins and rum in a small pot and place over medium heat. Bring to a boil and simmer until the rum has reduced to a syrup. Place in a canning jar and cool. The longer you keep these, the better they taste.

Pineapple Compote
Peel the pineapple, remove the core and save. Cut the pineapple into a small even dice. Combine the sugar, juices, pineapple core, peppercorns and 1 Tablespoon rum in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer until the syrup has reduced by at least a quarter. Blend the syrup with a hand blender and 80 pass through a sieve. Return mixture to a clean pot. Add the diced pineapple, cover and cook until tender. Taste for seasoning and add the remaining rum. Transfer to a container and chill until needed.

Pineapple Curd
In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk together the pineapple puree, sugar, egg yolks, cornstarch and pinch of salt. Turn on heat to medium and whisk constantly until the mixture thickens. Remove from heat and whisk in the butter until melted and smooth. Cool and store in a canning jar, sealed, for up to 1 week. For service place a small amount into a squeeze bottle.

Pineapple Foam
Whisk ingredients together thoroughly, transfer to an ISI Siphon bottle, screw lid on tightly and charge with two nitrous oxide canisters. Shake vigorously and leave in the fridge for a couple of hours.

Assembly

Put 1 long slice of the foie gras terrine in the center of the plate. Spoon a spoonful of the pineapple compote onto one end of the terrine and allow it to fall off one side. Squeeze 3 or 4 drops of the pineapple curd at various places around the plate. Randomly place the raisins around the plate. Shake the siphon gun vigorously and do a test spray away from the plate. Spoon the foam onto the end of the terrine opposite to the compote and again allow it to fall off the terrine. Garnish with the micro coriander sprigs and toasted brioche and serve. 

Wine Match

Riesling Auslese, Wittman, 2011
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The Lodge at Doonbeg, Country Clare, Ireland
Image by Patrick O'brien, Kiawah Partners
(The Lodge at Doonbeg is now Trump International Golf Links)
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4. GOLF KITCHEN: THE CULINARY PIONEERS

5/7/2022

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Image left: Wade Murphy, Executive Chef at The Lodge at Doonbeg in 2012
Image right: Foie Gras Terrine with Pineapple and Rum-soaked Raisins

THE LODGE AT DOONBEG: 2012

In the fall of 2012, I took my first trip to Ireland. It was an interesting flight that day. We landed in Dublin for a layover, and the connecting flight was my first experience on Ryan Air. It was an unusual aircraft, I mean, seriously, there was no padding on the plane's interior walls, and it was freezing; I did not take my coat off! 

We landed very early in the morning at the tiny Shannon airport in County Clare, Ireland. It must have been 5 A.M., and it seemed I was the only one that needed a ride to my destination, The Lodge at Doonbeg. My driver had my pickup time wrong, and I had to wait for several hours for him to arrive. When he came, I went on a magical adventure to the town of Doonbeg and then to the Lodge. 

I was enchanted by what appeared to be a castle from years gone by. The building, however, which John Haley from Kiawah Partners designed, opened in 2002. 

From the General Manager Joe Russell, the Rockstar Golf Professional Brian Shaw, Grass Superintendent Jim McKenna, and all the staff at that property were an absolute delight. The accommodations were fit for a King. 

Working with Wade Murphy, the Executive Chef at the time gave me an entirely different perception of Irish cuisine.
Please see my interview  below that was published in my first book Golf Club World, Behind the Gates in 2013. 
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The Lodge at Doonbeg, Country Clare, Ireland
Image by Patrick O'Brien, Kiawah Partners
(The Lodge at Doonbeg is now Trump International Golf Links)

an interview with wade murphy

GK: Tell us about your journey to become Executive Chef at Doonbeg Golf Club and Lodge.

I have been cooking from a very young age. I grew up in Gorey, County Wexford, in southeastern Ireland. My grandmother was a cook, and I spent many weekends with my grandparents. When she was cooking, I would stand on a bucket, peeling potatoes into a sink. That is one of my earliest memories. Ever since then, I knew I wanted to be a chef or involved in the hotel and catering industry. Fast forward. I attended the Dublin Institute of Technology where they have a culinary program. Simultaneously, I worked in a few Relais & Chateaux hotels part-time. At the time, there were only a few restaurants in Dublin creating fine dining menus. As a young chef, all I heard of was London. When I finished culinary school, I packed my bags and went to London. I spent seven years working in various two- and three-star Michelin restaurants and hotels. After those seven years, I returned to Ireland. Some friends told me about a new five-star hotel opening in Dublin. It was the Four Seasons. I applied for a position, was hired and spent six years working there. During that time, I was part of a task team that helped to open Four Seasons properties around Europe. I helped with the openings in Sharm El Sheikh, Prague, Budapest and London.

In 2005, I wanted to expand my culinary knowledge and branch out. Mr. John Brennan, who was General Manager at the Four Seasons in Dublin, arranged for me to transfer to the Four Seasons in Chicago. I went there as a sous chef, stayed for a few years and then was sent to New York to help with the re-opening of the Four Seasons after its refurbishment.

When I returned to Ireland, I opened a small boutique hotel called Lisloughrey Lodge, further up the West Coast from where we are now. It was my first executive chef job, and I spent 3-1/2 years there. While I was working there, we won various awards for best chef and best restaurant and two AA Rosette Awards. The hotel was so popular that, at one stage, I worked for several months without a day off. My boss then arranged a break for me to get away for a few days. And it’s funny because that break was at Doonbeg.

I came down and stayed here for a few days with my wife, Elaine. It was the off-season. I had a great time chilling out here; it was really what I needed. As we were leaving Doonbeg, I turned to my wife and said, “I could work there.” Two years later, I got a call from Kevin Kenny who was in charge of Darby’s restaurant at Doonbeg.

Kevin had his wedding at Lisloughrey Lodge. He told me, “We are looking for an executive chef to take over the complete running of the food at Doonbeg.” I told Kevin that I was very happy where I was and that I would think about it and then get back to him. Then I called my wife and said, “We are moving!”

GK: There are many dining areas at Doonbeg. How do you manage everything so well?

I have complete control over the food, every aspect of it from the Long Room Restaurant, the members’ bar and Darby’s to the Marquee Pavilion where we hold weddings and large functions. It’s a great property. When I came on board, the guys had been through a tough time, a very busy time, and they were all tired. I said I wasn’t going to come in like a Tasmanian Dust Devil, so I decided I would slowly make the changes needed, without upsetting the team. We’re starting to see the benefits of that now. I am lucky to have a great team by my side.
​
The Long Room Restaurant was just awarded Best Hotel Restaurant in Ireland this year [2012], which was a great accolade to receive. I have won many awards as a chef, but I would rather win best restaurant because that award is for the whole team. The chef is only as good as his team. I enjoy working at Doonbeg. I come here every day and get to look at the most amazing scenery during the trip here. I look out toward the ocean and know that the next thing past that ocean is America. Millions of liters of water!

GK: Do you support the local markets?

We have great local produce in the area. My mission is to source and use as much local product as is physically possible. My fish comes from right out there [he points to the Atlantic Ocean]. The guy who fishes for me also has my lobster pots. I can see his trawler some days. His fish is phenomenal, fresher than fresh. All of my meats and game come from within a 50-mile radius of the property. It’s inspiring to me as a chef to be able to do that. During the wild garlic season, I walk out onto the golf course where the wild garlic grows, and I forage for it.
​
GK: Besides your grandmother, who has influenced your cooking?

I have been inspired by many chefs whom I’ve met during my travels. I worked for some of London’s most famous chefs during the ‘90s, and I loved that style of cooking. In Ireland, I admire people like Ross Lewis of Chapter One Restaurant; it’s my favorite. There are others such as Paul Flynn at The Tannery in Dungarvan, County Waterford; Derry Clarke from L’Ecrivain in Dublin; Neven Maguire at MacNean House and Restaurant in County Cavan and Mickael Viljanen, chef of the Greenhouse Restaurant in Dublin. Mickael is cooking phenomenal food and is probably the most talked about chef in the country at the moment. In the U.S., Tom Colicchio is a favorite along with Grant Achatz and my old mentor, Kevin Hickey, at the Four Seasons Chicago.

I am also very passionate about Irish ingredients, but you also will see some outside influences in my style of cooking. James Beard had a quote that I sometimes put at the bottom of the menus. He said, “I don’t like gourmet cooking, I don’t like this and that cooking, I just like good cooking.”

I’m an Internet fiend who constantly looks at YouTube to see what other chefs are doing. Whenever I take a vacation, I choose a food destination. I also read a lot of cookbooks. My wife has banned me from bringing books into the house! My Amazon account is massive. Last year, I had to build two new bookshelves to fit all of the books. When I am not working, I am a food sponge.

I am really passionate about food and, today, that is a requirement in order to achieve anything in this industry.

***Wade Murphy currently operates his restaurant 1826 Adare in County Limerick. (2022)

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Recipe: Stuffed Quail with Apple and Celeriac Purée, Celeriac Confit, Crisp Walnuts and Lentil Paper
Recipe by Wade Murphy, Executive Chef at The Lodge at Doonbeg. 
(The Lodge at Doonbeg is not Trump International Golf Links.) 
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shawn olah

5/1/2022

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Left: Shawn Olah, Executive Chef at Highlands Falls Country Club, Highlands, North Carolina, USA
Right: Sweet Corn Bisque with Butter Poached Maine Lobster
 Highlands Falls Country Club situated about two miles from the quaint, elegant town of Highlands, was my first visit to North Carolina apart from layovers in Charlotte. I was blown away by the beauty of the mountains in the Fall.
Working with young chef Shawn Olah was a pleasure. His story is endearing as is his love of family, cooking, and his passion for creating new culinary programs for the areas youth.
~ Diana DeLucia


GK: Tell us about your upbringing?

I grew up moving around quite frequently. We moved from Florida to Grand Junction, Colorado, Fredericksburg, Virginia and back to Florida due to my stepfather’s TV repair service business. Bouncing around schools took its toll and when my parents separated, my mother and I went back to Florida. They tried to make another attempt at being a cohesive family, so we yet again moved back to Virginia. I couldn’t find a job and all that was available was a line cook position at Taco Bell or to become a backyard mechanic. This was not for me, and I knew I had to make a change.

One day I told my mom I was going out to look for a job. What I was actually doing, was going to seek opportunities elsewhere. I slid my suitcase out my window, got into my Honda Civic and started driving back to Florida. When she called and found out that I was at the Georgia border, she wasn’t exactly happy with me! I knew from experience that there were a lot more opportunities for me in South Florida. I kept driving and I ended up staying with my grandparents.

GK: Did it take you long to find employment?

I was looking for a simple job that I could jump into, I had minimal experience. I found an advertisement in the newspaper for a position as a busboy/food runner at Royal Poinciana Golf Club. I didn’t know anything about golf
clubs, but I figured I could clear tables to make some money. I was very fortunate as I was able to form a friendship with the Executive Chef John Giebels. Chef Giebels had been at the club for 25 years, but six months after I joined the team he retired. The club brought in Chef Manfred Brauer from the Bellagio in Las Vegas to take the executive chef position. We hit it off immediately and he recommended that I should move from the front of the house to work with him in the kitchen. Beginning the following day, I was to be trained as a professional chef and paid $3/hour more than I was at that time. As a teenager that was a large jump in wages, I obviously agreed!

After some training, I became his executive banquet chef and remained in that position for just under five years. During one of the off-seasons, I took a summer position in New Hampshire at an Emerald Distinguished Club called Bald Peak Colony Club. I went there as an executive banquet chef for a season and when I came back, I decided to move to The Ritz-Carlton in Naples, Florida. This was with the guidance from Manfred as the sous chef was not going to be leaving any time soon and I still had a couple of career stages to go through. His recommendation was that I could stay at Royal Poinciana but that it was not best for my future development. It would be good for me to move on and learn from another chef to continue my education.

I took a position at the Ritz-Carlton working under Executive Chef Derin Moore, CMC. I worked in the main hotel in various outlets, did some private functions at Tiburon, as well as private off-property events. I was even fortunate
enough to work the famous Naples Winter Wine Festival, operating one of the dining services. I grew tired of the hotel lifestyle, and I moved on to The Club Pelican Bay, another beautiful property in Naples. I stayed at Pelican Bay for five years as the sous chef/restaurant chef. I then received a call from Patrick McDonald, who was formerly the
assistant general manager at Royal Poinciana.

Patrick was a great mentor for me on all aspects of the business. I was gaining the opportunity to work with him again! Patrick took over a tennis and swim club named The Town Club in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. Lucky me, he needed a chef! I was 27 and my goal was to be an executive chef at the age of 35. I thought my goal was a bit premature, as I was training under chefs in their 50s. Regardless, with Patrick’s support, I jumped into my first executive chef role eight years earlier than my goal. I stayed there for three years, when an opportunity to operate a larger golf club with two clubhouses presented itself.

My move to Wisconsin from South Florida became a life changing experience, one which I was not expecting. A few short months after taking my role with The Town Club, I was rushed into emergency surgery, as my appendix had ruptured some-time during my work-day. It was during the short recovery I was mandated to take, that I met my now wife, Amber. In hindsight, maybe things do truly line up as they’re meant to.

GK: Where did you head to after Milwaukee?

When I was 30, I secured the executive chef role at Green Bay Country Club, in Green Bay, Wisconsin. This role offered me the opportunity to oversee two separate clubhouses, about a mile apart. I had a sous chef and culinary team at both locations. This gave me the opportunity to solidify my abilities running two full operations. I was there for about 18 months, when my wife and I decided to leave after our son was born. We realized once we had an infant, subzero temperatures were no longer desirable for up to seven months a year.

Patrick Delozier
with GGA Partners presented me the opportunity to work at Highlands Falls Country Club in Highlands, North Carolina. It was a real draw as I would be working just over half a year, and I could be a present father to my young son. Living in Virginia as a teenager, I knew the Carolinas would be a great place for us to raise our family. It offered the rural, small town feel with several major cities just a short drive away. Most importantly, was the obvious still ingrained nature of good old-fashioned Southern hospitality.

We sold our home in Florida in the midst of Covid-19, when the housing prices skyrocketed and relocated to North Carolina. Initially, the club assisted us in securing a rental property until we were able to find a home to purchase.
We ended up finding a home just outside of Highlands, that we felt better fit our lifestyle.

Highlands Falls Country Club had been completely remodeled, and for me it was like coming to a brand-new property. I was really impressed by the membership and General Manager Jason Macaulay. They had the willingness to make some big changes in the dining operations and gave me free reign. Although the club had been remodeled in 2020, it was closed for the off season. The club reopened in May 2021 to a friendly membership that was eager to socialize.

GK: That must have made it better for you as a chef as they’re not expecting to return to the old Highlands Falls.

The membership was aware that there was an executive search taking place for a new chef. I had been invited to the club, along with other chefs to do tastings for the executive chef position. The tasting panel included board members, house committee members, and long-term members. They were very selective on who would be involved with each chef’s tasting, to my understanding. To reopen the club, it was much easier with a closed operation. With a new face in the kitchen, we knew the membership would return anticipating fresh flavors and menu offerings.

GK: The club had been closed for a long time, how and where did you source products for your tasting?

When I arrived in Highlands Falls the club was not operational. There were no deliveries, coolers were empty. I had to find and travel store to store, in a semi-rural area with bad cell reception to find food products. I had to somewhat develop my menu around what I could find on the shelves, which was nerve-racking considering the cuisine I aim to
serve during tastings. I developed my menu in the grocery store! I thought it was the best plan of attack for the situation, which came to work out well.

GK: So, the whole town knows who you are already, (laughs) in the grocery department that is?

The produce department particularly. Someone finally asked if I needed assistance. I believe they thought I was confused, circling the store with an empty cart making notes with pen and paper over and over. What better way to make a lasting impression in a small town?

GK: I see that you have one of the largest croquet clubs in America here. Do you take care of them as well?

Our culinary program services all areas of the club, including private in-home events. We host multiple croquet tournaments throughout the year, with teams from all over the country. We received rave reviews from members
and guests last year, with plans to continue expanding our dining offerings in 2022.

GK: Have the members given you a lot of feedback thus far?

Yes, almost all of the feedback is positive! Of course, like any other dining operation, we always have requests for previous favorites or dietary/special requests. It’s a beautiful thing when you know what quality the membership expects, without much variance by member group. I have been a part of operations where committees control menus for dining services, which makes a chef’s duties more difficult. Here, I have several members that remember me from much earlier in my career in Naples, Florida. Knowing the level of service they expect, makes it easier to provide! I’m going to continue to grow and see where evolution takes us. I think that the best I can do as a chef is to be myself, continue to grow and develop, and continue to put myself out there.

GK: How did you come up with the dishes that you presented for this story? What were your inspirations?

They are inspired from dishes that I have created in the à la carte dining menus. I have a strong belief in “simple food done well” being the forefront of what I do. Although we encompass all traditional and modern flavors and techniques, I find it very important to put the same energy and dedication in-to all culinary items, especially the simple things.

GK: You mentioned you are not a big pastry fan, but your pastries are immaculate.

Thank you! I’ve learned many flavor profiles and techniques along the way. When I was at  the Ritz-Carlton, I would clock out and enter the pastry room and just be a fly on the wall and if I was lucky, I could assist! I wanted to learn, and it was obvious, which was generally the biggest hurdle, getting a chef to allow me in their area. Overall, in my career I have worked with chefs, bakers and pastry chefs from international destinations and backgrounds. I learned about breads, pretzels, and more working with a great German baker at Royal Poinciana. I was even fortunate enough to be a semi-regular at Norman Love’s Confections, way back in early 2000’s while he was working on some
developments for Godiva. Many of the other pastry items I do are self-taught or self-developed, utilizing the basic constructs of traditional baking.

GK: How are you managing the staff shortages during these crazy times?

Like everyone in the industry, staffing has presented challenges. This year we are taking a proactive approach in not only finding staff, but we have assumed an almost “focus group” on how to retain employees and key staff. In my department, I have moved the sous chef and pastry chef roles to annually compensated positions, even though we are only operational from May to October. We have immediately drawn the interest of talented young professionals with families, because of the quality of life we offer.

GK: What interesting programs are you planning for your staff, such as off-season educational programs , trips to The Chef’s Garden and regional farms?

Covid has presented many challenges in the field of continuing education for the hospitality industry. Many options are just now beginning to reopen with a physical location, rather than all online based platforms. In the mountains
of North Carolina, we are fortunate to have a wide diversity of different farming practices right here at home. We live in the only rainforest within the continental U.S. We are fortunate to have many specialty farms in the area. One of my favorite hidden gems is the Wagyu beef producers, Providence Farmstead. Once travel restrictions have lightened, I have plans to reach out to The Chef’s Garden and organize a trip for some of my best to visit The Culinary Vegetable Institute of America, as well as other famous properties. It’s important to keep and grow the
interest of the next generation of culinary professionals.

GK: Tell us about the beehives on the property.

The Apiary was in place when I arrived and is maintained by our superintendent Fred Gehrisch, CGCS and his team. I’ve tried to utilize the benefits of his program more and more in our cuisine at the club. The desserts presented in this story both use our honey in different applications. We also sell the honey in our golf shop to members throughout the late spring, fall, and winter. He only does one large harvest a year but it’s something I’d like to get more involved with for my own education.

We are incredibly fortunate to have a professional superintendent who utilizes all complete organics throughout our golf course and outdoor areas. Mr. Gehrisch even goes as far as having our lakes and streams on the property tested regularly, to ensure that the trout he stocks our lakes with annually are safe for those to eat, if they can catch them!

GK: What are your plans for Highland Falls this year?
​

I think we are going to continue to grow and expand. Last year we put in a bar menu since during the renovation, they expanded the bar, adding indoor-outdoor seating. I knew that the bar was naturally going to be a hub for social interaction. With great success, we are planning on adding in some gastropub themed nights for upscale small plates and diverse offerings, to continue growth of our bar concept. I am looking forward to the season-opening!

We have multiple member weddings, and The National Croquet Tournament in May. I’d like to get involved with the Taste of Highlands either this year or next if we can. I believe that the more opportunities we have within both the club world and Highlands Community, the more we should continue to get involved. I’ve worked in some fantastic properties in my career, and Highlands Falls is a hidden gem that’s sure to shine in the spotlight. We’re discussing remodeling the kitchen next year to allow me some of those necessary improvements, primarily space to continue to grow and accommodate more of the areas on the property.

Our demand for more options, more diverse offerings in more diverse settings has grown significantly in the first year. I believe this trend and growth rate at the club will be consistent for years to come. I’d like to collaborate more with the local chefs this year. Our mountains are filled with all these great clubs and luxury developments with limited educational opportunities without distant travel. I’d like to develop long-term monthly meetings for chefs and develop other opportunities with the ACF (American Culinary Federation) in mind, much like I’m used to in South Florida. I plan on staying a while as it’s a beautiful area, a fantastic club and an even better membership.

Picture
The main Clubhouse and Hole #10. Image by Michelle Muraco
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