Story by Bill Nestor. Photography by Pedro Arias, Ulises L. Guerrero, and Favia Cruz Mercado

The second Golf Kitchen Punta Mita event held April 25-28 at the 1,600-acre upscale luxury Pacific coast destination is in the books as sensational, smashing, and delightful. Those were descriptives often voiced by many from the opening swing of a four-hole shootout elimination contest between eleven chefs from some of the most prestigious golf clubs and resorts in the world. Chefs Damian Gilchrist, Jared Ashton, Michael Ruggiero, José Carles Fabregás, Doug Blair, Joseph Klages, Marcelo Pereyra, Yasuo Asai, Gastón Yelicich, Ivan Villanueva and Anthony Villanueva teed it up on Pacifico in play for the Golf Kitchen Chef’s Cup. They presented a golfing exhibition on course during the first afternoon; then proceeded in Punta Mita kitchens with non–golfing chefs to surpass even the loftiest expectations throughout four days of a spectacular affair. 

The eminent culinarians dazzled participants with their breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus. Their culinary delights were presented at St Regis resort and Four Seasons managed Punta Mita Golf Club restaurants, and also at Punta Mita’s Sufi, Pacifico and Kupuri beach club restaurants. Incredible, awe-inspiring, tasty, and delicious were words echoed round during the swing and savor activities. It was apparent Golf Kitchen Punta Mita once again delivered a winning combination showcasing talents in golf and gastronomy.

“The second edition was a hit from start to finish with a great crowd of locals and visitors creating many memorable moments and flavors on the golf courses and off,” shared Carl Emberson, Director of Marketing & Operations at Punta Mita.

There was some excellent play by golfers in the chef only competition.  It came down to the final hole where Chef José Carles Fabregás bested Chef Marcelo Pereyra to claim the 2019 Golf Kitchen Chef’s Cup.

“I was particularly impressed with the acknowledgment of the grounds crew by John McIntyre, Director of Golf at Punta Mita GC, before the shotgun start of the two-day tournament. It is a gesture that I’m recommending at the Kiawah Island Golf Club,” said Chef Doug Blair. 

Punta Mita offered a variety of venues for meals at hotel, golf club, and beach club restaurants, and also lodging options in private residences or rooms and suites at the understatedly elegant hotel resorts. The backdrop of sandy beaches along the coastline of the Pacific Ocean and Banderas Bay, and the access to pools, spas, health clubs, tennis club, and magnificently maintained fields of play at Pacifico and Bahia provided an ideal location for the 2019 GKPM celebration of chefs, food, spirits, and golf. 

Chefs Pato Pérsico and Jorgé González served as hosts, welcomed resident and guest chefs, and coordinated the culinary teams who shared their knowledge and talents. Participating chefs included an outstanding selection of international culinary masters:

Pato Pérsico, Executive Chef, Punta Mita beach clubs, México
Jorge González, Executive Chef, Four Seasons Punta Mita, México
Anthony Giacoponello, Executive Chef, Sebonack GC, Southampton, NY
Joseph Klages, Executive Sous Chef, Sebonack GC, Southampton, NY
Michael Ruggiero, Executive Chef,  GlenArbor GC, Bedford, NY
Tony Villanueva, Executive Chef, Edgewood CC, River Vale, NJ
Ricki Motta, Executive Chef, The Garzón Club, Uruguay
Doug Blair, Executive Chef, Cassique at Kiawah Island Club, SC
Damian Gilchrist, Executive Chef, Sankaty Head GC, Nantucket, MA
Lalo Palazuelos, Executive Chef, Zibu Restaurant, México
Yasuo Asai, Executive Chef, Asai Kaiseki Cuisine, México
Marcelo Pereyra, Executive Chef, Coronel Pringles Restaurant, Argentina
José Carles Fabregás, Executive Chef/Owner, Downtown Boquerón, Puerto Rico
Bertha Alicia Barajas, Executive Chef, Tail of the Whale/Four Seasons Punta Mita, México 
Gastón Yelicich, Executive Chef/Owner, Cuatro Mares Restaurant, Punta del Este, Uruguay
Manuel Peruyer, Executive Chef, St Regis Punta Mita Resort, México

Director of Golf, John T. McIntyre gives well earned praise for grounds staff before the Golf Kitchen Cup begins. 

“Meeting and working together with chefs from other prestigious golf clubs was a unique opportunity to network and share.  My culinary team also benefited from the experience of making Golf Kitchen a win-win for all involved. It is one of the events that I like the most. The interactions between all are very intense. It allows us to continue learning and to see what’s cooking outside of Punta Mita. Four days are very productive for all,” exclaimed Chef Pato Pérsico.

Pacifico Beach Club provided an ideal setting for the opening night GKPM dinner reception. Dining began under a clear blue, sunny sky at tables facing the Pacific Ocean. The eventual sunset left a lingering glow while guests mingled, feasted on culinary creations, and imbibed on tropical delights. Mixologists’ cocktail blends and Garzon Club wines highlighted libations that poured freely while a plethora of food samplings at several chefs’ stations  fulfilled tasting desires.  Included were:
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•A brilliant, fanciful “Millionaire Martini” concoction combined Kobe beef Yakatori atop king crab, lobster and shrimp Volcano Brûlée with 24kt gold leaf, and ocean pearls in an oversized martini glass by Chef Damian Gilchrist

•Sautéed prawns with fresh vegetables and carrot pesto; Grilled bruschetta with fresh ricotta, mushrooms conserva, and grilled vegetables by Chef Doug Blair

•Sliced grilled duck breast, pan-seared Foie gras, mango salsa tomatillo sauce; Fresh local oyster and Hamachi tartar, citrus segments,  Yuzu Sauce by Chef Joseph Klages

•Tuna Crudo Italian style with cucumber, toasted crumbs and Sardinian gnocchi with lump crab, baby arugula, lime and parmesan by Chef Michael Ruggiero

•Assorted sculpted pastries by Chef Pato Pérsico

“Sharing the kitchen at Pacifico Beach Club while prepping for the opening reception was a treat on many levels; getting to know other chefs and their unique stories, where they began their culinary journey, how they arrived where they are today, and getting a glimpse of how their respective clubs operate.  Most interesting was discovering the flavor profiles that make up their core. It was great to share our similarities and differences. 

Over the years, I’ve worked with many people from Mexico and have developed an affinity for their food, culture, work ethic, and especially the pride they take in what they do and create.  It was inspiring to share the kitchen with such a group of passionate culinary people,”  said Chef Michael Ruggiero.

Bahia was the field of play for round one. The 38 two-player teams made up of Punta Mita residents, guests, visitors, and some chefs competed in a scramble format on day one of the two-day Golf Kitchen Cup tournament. Views of the Pacific Ocean and Banderas Bay escorted players along the undulating terrain and meandering routing. The flavorsome, refreshing garden luncheon at Punta Mita Golf Club hit the spot following the first day of play. It was created, prepared, and shared by guest chefs: Tony Villanueva, Ricki Motta, José Carles Fabregás, and Yasuo Asai; and chefs Jorge González and Bertha Alicia Barajas, and their Four Seasons’ culinary team.
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https://www.golfkitchen.com/blog/golf-kitchen-punta-mita-2019-lunch-menus

​“In the restaurant business, we always take something away and leave a part of us behind wherever we travel and cook. I hope that I left a lasting impression of my heart and kitchen craft that has served me well all these years. What I bring back to my kitchen is a spark of this tremendous energy and work ethic that I witnessed those few days in Punta Mita. I am forever changed and inspired by my new brothers in Mexico,” expressed Chef Tony Villanueva.

“It’s always fun and dynamic to share with chefs from other parts of the world. It is an enriching exchange. We all take something from each other: a recipe, a taste, a souvenir, and several new colleague friends. Days like this are most enjoyable... to share, laugh, and give; where everyone is oblivious to their routines, prepares to open up to new experiences, and transfers all this feeling of relaxation when cooking and eating while eager to discover and show rich flavors,” said Chef Ricki Motta.

​Dinner that evening was enjoyed at one of the three Punta Mita restaurants where sensational, melt-in-your-mouth meals were prepared by guest chefs. 

Braised Veal Osso Bucco with Creamy Polenta, Jumbo Asparagus, Reduction Sauce by Antnony Giacoponello, Executive Chef at Sebonack Golf Club.

Chef Gastón Yelicich fashioned cuisine that hit on all tastebud cylinders at Sufito, the outdoor open-air kitchen at Sufi Ocean Club.  Featured appetizers were Red Tuna tartare with avocado and chives, and Grilled Jumbo Shrimp with cocktail sauce, and heart of palm salad. The entrée included Organic Chicken Confit, Rôsti potatoes, and a mushroom mix. Dessert was an almond tart of charred plums with bay leaves, pistachio ice cream, and cream  caramel alfajorcitos. 

At Pacifico Beach Club’s Grill, Chef Lalo Palazuelos’ exceptional culinary skills were evident in the dinner he prepared. First up was a White Fish Ceviche Stuffed Chili with garlic oil, guacachile, toasted peanut sauce, and sweet potato chips. Roasted Cauliflower with parmesan cheese and lemon sauce coupled with beet, coconut milk, and fried basil followed. Next up was Fish Fusion, a fillet of fish wrapped in banana leaf with tree chili sauce, tomato, coriander, and mushrooms. Selva Mex Thai–Coconut ice cream, strawberries, and a crunchy surprise dipped in dulce de leche concluded the meal.

Chef Anthony Giacoponello delivered a masterfully created three-course menu at St Regis Resort’s Carolina restaurant. Served were Pan-Seared Sea Scallops with mango chutney; Braised Veal Osso Bucco, creamy polenta, jumbo asparagus, with a reduction sauce; and Mille Feuille Napoleon, fresh strawberries and whipped cream.  

“This is one of my favorite events of the year. Golf Kitchen gives you great bonding experience with other international culinary professionals. The setting at Punta Mita is breathtaking. Each day provides activities and opportunities to try foods from around the world and meet new people. I truly enjoyed playing in the golf tournament; we had a good battle,” voiced Chef Lalo Palazuelos.

​The second day of the GKPM Cup was a best-ball format contested on Pacifico; a course known for hole 3B Tail of the Whale, the world’s only natural ocean island green. The winning team was Ricardo Trueba and son, eleven-year-old sensation Ricardo Trueba Jr. who played off the men’s tees and astounded all.  

Following round two, tournament prize awards were presented during a particularly tasty luncheon adjacent to the 18th green.  Guest chefs Michael Ruggiero, Damian Gilchrist, Anthony Giacoponello, Doug Blair and Marcelo Pereyra; along with resident chefs Jorge González and Bertha Alicia Barajas, and their Four Seasons culinary team offered a variety of flavorful choices. 

https://www.golfkitchen.com/blog/golf-kitchen-punta-mita-2019-lunch-menus

“It’s always a little daunting to put your food up with such world-class chefs, but once we’re all together, it’s nothing short of pure fun. I’m taken aback by the quality of individuals that participate in this event.  They hail from all over the world, and everyone seems to have a similar kindness and generosity in their demeanor.  We leave having solidified old friendships, as well as forged new ones,” commented Chef Doug Blair.

The closing dinner gala under the spacious open-air Kupuri Beach Club palapa restaurant took us on a culinary tour of the regions and styles of chefs Anthony Giacoponello, Tony Villanueva, Yasuo Asai, and Pato Pérsico.  They delivered an extraordinary off-the-charts, scrumptious, 4-course bill-of-fare.  
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* Chef Yasuo Asai: Shrimp, Octopus, Asparagus, Cauliflower, and Blueberries with Vinegar Jelly

* Chef José Carles Fabregás: Local Totoaba in Lentil Stew, Green Plantain Bollitas and Crispy Skin Chicharron

* Chef Anthony Giacoponello: Braised Boneless Short Ribs, Truffle Root Vegetable Puree, Tomato Confit, and Sauce

* Chef Tony Villanueva: White Chocolate Cheesecake, Strawberry Lime Agave Compote.

* Wine pairings: Monte Xanic Vina Kristel Sauvignon Blanc, Guadalupe Valley, Mexico; Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon and Don Leo Stellar Digestivo Cabernet Sauvignon, Parras Valley, Mexico

“Golf Kitchen Punta Mita is a unique event in its own right. Sharing the culture and stories of chefs from all over the world was incredible.  This event brought together great international chefs at an amazing property. I cannot wait to see what the next Golf Kitchen event will be in 2020,” said Chef José Carles Fabregás.

A delectable farewell brunch at Kupuri beach club’s al fresco restaurant on the final day made for a reflective gathering.  The chefs shared thoughts and sentiments about being at GKPM and their participation in the extraordinary event. Sunday’s wrap-up repast punctuated the essence of Golf Kitchen Punta Mita’s 2019 edition. 

Chef Pato Pérsico and his staff put out an extravagant buffet that would have sufficed. However, four guest chefs took it to another level with servings of delicious samplings that included: 

* Pork Bondiola and Shrimp by Chef Marcelo Pereyra

* Octopus ceviche, Acapulco Ceviche, Octopus Cocktail with Sauces by Chef Lalo Palazuelos 

* Spinach Pascualina and Tomato Salad and Entrecote Milanese Sandwiches by Chef Gastón Yelicich
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*Burned Tomato, Rôsti Potato Avocado and Egg, and “Banderita grill” with Chimichurri by Chef Ricki Motta. 

The combination of scrumptious brunch creations boinked a closing exclamation mark on a parade of remarkable cuisine. It was a fitting finish to four fantastic days of golf, food, wine, hospitality, and camaraderie at a lovely tropical paradise by the sea in Mexico. 
 
“This edition of GKPM was for me the first time as a co-host chef. It was great to communicate with Chef Pato Pérsico to plan and bring all the chefs recipes and ideas together, and then finally to meet them in person.  What a wonderful group of chefs: their personalities, cuisine, techniques, and passion for cooking created an amazing experience. The aromas and flavors during the cooking sessions were incredible.  I was so delighted and most enjoyed seeing my team so excited about learning and meeting new chefs in their Punta Mita kitchens.  It was very motivational for the soul of the team. Tasting all the food coming out from the stations, followed by smiles and a great vibe made doing Golf Kitchen Punta Mita 2019 a real joy,” expressed Chef Jorgé Gonzalez.

​The Golf Kitchen concept of bringing together a lineup of accomplished chefs from prestigious golf clubs and resorts worldwide to share and showcase unexcelled flavorful cuisine is unique and should be recognized. Nowhere else is there an opportunity for a diverse collective of chefs to work side-by-side in the development of such a spectacular event. 

“From its inception, the intent and essence of the Golf Kitchen brand have been to bring exclusive private golf club and resort chefs together in their very own club for and about them, which is Golf Kitchen.

It is a surreal moment in time to witness my vision come to life over and over again as we continue to build our team of clubs and chefs with each event.  The bonds and friendships I have witnessed developing since the first event at Winged Foot Golf Club some years ago are unquestionably rewarding.  It gives me and others the spirit and courage to continue to believe in and carry on, “ shared Diana Delucia, founder, publisher, and maestro of Golf Kitchen.

The camaraderie of these dynamic culinarians is magical, as is their most delicious creations that are appreciated and savored. Perhaps magical is what best describes the experience for the chefs and participants in Golf Kitchen events. 

In many ways, the experiences of the international guest chefs at Golf Kitchen Punta Mita appear quite similar to what each two-player team feels when golfing in the tournament at GKPM or at clubs anywhere. It’s the camaraderie that draws us to golf time and again while facilitating the enjoyment and freedom to be together in friendship, a basic human need as social beings. 

If golfing and gastronomy are your interest or passion, it doesn’t get much better than to experience a Golf Kitchen event at a lovely, tropical, oceanside setting. It’s delighfully unforgettable.

by Bill Nestor

Golf Kitchen Punta Mita 2019 sponsors: Riviera Nayarit Visitors & Convention Bureau, St Regis Punta Mita Resort, Grey Goose, Tequila Patron and Copa Airlines. A silent and live auction by Grandstand Sports raised funds for Peace & Fundacion Punta de Mita https://peacepuntademita.org/

For more information:
Golf Kitchen books, magazine, and events: www.golfkitchen.com
Punta Mita Resort and Punta Mita Golf Club: www.puntamita.com
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John Carson’s dedication to bees and their impact on the environment has fascinated me since my first conversation with him in 2014 at Sebonack Golf Club during the installation of the hives.  I returned this year to see how the colonies were progressing and asked Carson a few questions about his work. ~ Diana DeLucia

GK: Why bees?

Somewhere in my 20’s, I started keeping honeybees. I am mesmerized by them, and managing hives has become a significant part of my life. 

GK: What do you do in your average day, is it your full-time job?

No, it is not my only job, I own a farm stand in Westhampton, New York. I get up early every day, and I take care of everything I have to do for the farm stand, I’m usually done by nine a.m. I have people that work there and manage it while I go and take care of the bees and, you know, they need a lot of attention. It’s not all year round, but in the springtime, it’s hectic.

GK: How do you feel about the food industry and the honey that you’re producing?  There is a lot of suspect honey on the market.

It is big news right now. There is a lot of honey that isn’t real, and it’s either filtered beyond the point of being honey, or it’s mixed with high fructose corn syrup. The honey that we are producing is 100% raw. It’s never been heated, and it’s never been filtered. It comes from ​the bees to the jar, and I oversee the entire operation. 

​GK: Is it true that the honey in your local area is the best to eat? 

It depends, I have a whole theory on this.  A lot of my customers at the farm stand and other places eat raw honey because of their allergies. I don’t think there is any medical or scientific explanation, but when somebody comes to me, and they say, “oh, I have allergies, I want to buy some honey,” I ask them, “what are you allergic to?” If they know what it is, say they’ve said they are allergic to dandelions, I’ll make sure that I give them the honey that we took from the spring because I know that the dandelions were blooming at that time. If you’re allergic to goldenrod, there’s no goldenrod in the spring, honey. So you want honey from the fall,  but there’s no definite proof that this works, but nobody’s complaining.

GK: Why are honey bees successful pollinators?  

They are species-specific. A bee colony is set up to have scouts that are looking for sources of nectar and pollen, they communicate with each other where the best sources are.  For bee pollination to work, it has to come from the same species. Butterflies don’t care, they’ll go from a cucumber to a tomato to a dandelion, but you’re not going to get a cucumber that looks like a dandelion. It’s not going to happen. This is why bees are such valuable pollinators. They are species-specific. They’ll just do one thing. You could have clover honey if you knew that clover was in bloom as that’s when the bees get the nectar.

GK: I heard that honey is like wine, and there are different flavors if you pay attention. 

Yes, that is correct, some of the honey from Sebonack Golf Club tastes like mint, and that is due to a wild mint on or around the golf course, it’s very subtle. 

The honey that we produce at the beginning of the season is so light that you can read a newspaper through it. The honey at the end of the season, if we get a fall crop, is such a deep, dark red that if you hold the jar up to the light, you can’t see through it. 

I have a vast following of people that want to buy this honey. They know it’s real. Some people only want light honey, others like crystallized honey or dark honey.  Some people come to the farmstand, and we don’t have the dark honey, well, they won’t buy the light honey,  they will just wait until we have the dark honey. 

GK: At what point did society say we want to make honey that all tastes exactly the same?

There’s a lot of people on the planet. There’s no way you can produce enough food without mass production. People complain about Monsanto and Roundup and all this other stuff, but when they go into a store, and a tomato is $10, an ear of corn is $15 they’re going to be complaining about that too. You have to mass-produce. It takes a lot to feed a nation.

People have this idea that we’re going to be organic farmers and we’re going  to be organic farmers and we’re going to grow everything naturally, and we’re not going to use any plastic. It’s not possible without technology. The human population over the last 150 years has exploded, and everybody needs to eat, and there is a trade-off for that, there is some collateral damage, and it’s not feasible for the small production companies as they can’t produce enough, you need factories. The other thing is the actual cost of producing. The small farmers they’re on the verge of going out of business. There are regulations and all the other associated problems. It can’t keep going the way it is, and the trade-off with that will be mass-produced food.  Everything will be GMO.  It’s the only way they can produce enough. 

Beekeeping, up until the 1800s consisted of a man who found a beehive, killed it and took the honey and that worked fine back then as the demand for the honey didn’t outpace what the bees would naturally be able to produce. Then along came this guy Langstroth, and he figures out beekeeping.  He invented and designed the hives that we’re using today.

GK: How are they mass producing honey?

What has happened recently with the bees is they went on a genetic laser beam from being natural producers to controlled hives. People figured out that you can flip generations in the summertime in a matter of weeks, and very quickly, things started to change.  I really believe that one of the reasons the bees are dying is genetic. 

What I’m trying to do is raise queens that I  select for survivability and heritability.  So far it hasn’t worked. It’s like Holstein cows, you can’t take a herd of cows and let them go and figure that they’re going to be all right. The farmer has to take care of them and, I believe it’s the same thing with bees nowadays. This is only my opinion,  but the single biggest problem is mites, and ​the vast majority of other issues that you see with bees are a direct effect of the mites. 

GK: Bees are not native to America, usually when a species from another country is introduced it becomes a huge problem. Why is this different for honey bees? 

90% of the food that’s pollinated is pollinated by honey bees. 

GK: What happened before the honeybees were introduced?  

Honey bees are not native to America, they were introduced when European settlers came here, mainly to make mead. The American Indians took care of themselves. So they were fine. There was nobody here. They didn’t need the food.

GK: So why do people say if there are no bees, there’ll be no people.

The population of the US is around 400 million people, that’s a lot of mouths to feed.  The Chinese are trying to hand pollinate, but it’s too labor-intensive, remember in a healthy hive there are 40 000 to 60,000 bees, that’s a lot of work to hand pollinate.  Bees are so efficient at what they do. Depending on who you ask and I personally don’t subscribe to this, but maybe it’s true, and, I think Einstein was one of them who said that the human race has between one and 10 years without bees.

GK: Tell us about the mass production of honey bees. 

You can palletize hundreds of hives, say you have thousands of acres of almonds in California, they’ll bring these palletized hives in semi-trailers, they’ll know how many thousand acres and how many thousand colonies they need. They know when 10% of the blossoms are in bloom, and that’s when they let the bees go because the bees will go right to the flowers.
 
GK: It sounds like what you’re saying is bees are becoming a commodity production, and that’s probably why they’re all getting sick because they’re not immune to anything.

GK: How do you feel about Golf Clubs like Sebonack who are producing their own hives?  

I think it is a fantastic way to give back to the environment and to set an example for other clubs to do the same. They have the land, so why not keep a healthy honey bee population?  Recently I have seen an uptick of clubs installing hives, and from a members perspective, it creates a great deal of pride in the club.  

Yields 4

Ingredients

Shrimp and Scampi
12 Western Australia Scampi Tails 
12 Tiger Prawn Cutlets 
Olive Oil
1 knob of Butter
Salt and Pepper (to taste)

Wild Leaves
20 Watercress
20 Rocket Leaves
20 Sorrel Leaves
Olive Oil 
Salt

Citrus  
1 Grapefruit (slice into segments)
1 Red Grapefruit (slice into segments)
1 Lime (slice into segments)
1 Orange (slice into segments)
1 Lemons (slice into segments)
1/2 teaspoon Dill (finely chopped)
Olive Oil

Pomegranate Dressing
6 Tablespoons Olive Oil
2 Tablespoons White Wine Vinegar
2 Tablespoons Pomegranate Seeds 
1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice (freshly squeezed)
1 teaspoon Tobiko Caviar 
1 teaspoon Chives (finely chopped)

Preparation

Shrimp and Scampi
In a hot frying pan, sauté the scampi and prawns with olive oil caramelizing them well on all sides, add a knob of butter and baste the seafood well. Season to taste. 

Wild Leaves
In a large salad bowl, dress the wild leaves with olive oil and salt then set aside.

Citrus
In a sauté pan add all of the citrus fruit then add the olive oil and chopped dill. Warm over low heat. Set aside.

Pomegranate Dressing
In a small mixing bowl combine the olive oil, vinegar, and lemon into an emulsion set aside. 
Add the caviar, pomegranate, and chives just before serving.

Assembly

Arrange the shrimp and scampi and citrus segments on the plate, as shown in the image.    
Spoon the citrus on the flesh of the shrimp and scampi.
Arrange the wild salad leaves and drizzle the pomegranate dressing.
Garnish the scampi with a half a teaspoon of Tobiko caviar. 

Serve immediately. 

Wine Match

Oakridge Pinot Grigio, Yarra Valley, VICTORIA.

I am an Australian native and lived in Melbourne for 18 years, and it is the birthplace of my two daughters. We moved to the United States in 2002, and when I started my business Golf Kitchen in 2014, I had longed for the day that I would be welcomed behind the gates at The Royal Melbourne Golf Club. It has been an extraordinary experience getting to know Chef Anthony, he is talented and pleasantly humble for someone with such a substantial culinary background. I hope you enjoy his story and recipes. ~ Diana DeLucia

GK: Tell us about your life before The Royal Melbourne Golf Club.

I was born in Sri Lanka and migrated to Australia in the 1980s when I was 11. Although my parents wanted me to be very successful, they never pressured me and were supportive of what career path I chose. Food was a big part of my life due to my family’s multiple cultures, and it was always exciting at the family dinner table.
 
I finished high school, with excellent grades, and while I could have gone to any University I wanted, I felt it wasn’t for me. During my senior years at high school, I had started working at the MCG (Melbourne Cricket Ground) as a runner taking care of the Corporate Boxes in the southern stand. I really enjoyed working with the hospitality team and the interesting guests that would come to experience the sporting events. The food that I helped prepare was a big new exciting world for me, very different from what I knew. It was fascinating to observe how the chefs turned everyday food into delicious, food into delicious, flamboyant, eye and palate-pleasing creations. I became very good at my job. The Executive Chef, Peter, was delighted with my work ethic and asked me if I would be interested in an apprenticeship. When I could not decide, he insisted I go to the interview regardless. To my surprise, the recruiters at Spotless Catering rejected me and told me bluntly that I wasn’t suited to be a chef. That was a bad week at the MCG, and everyone knew it! Seeing that I was upset, Peter asked me what happened. “I didn’t get the job.”  “No worries,” he said, “would you like to go and help out the chef at the Art Center, he is looking for someone to work at the Christmas functions?” I said, “Ok, why not.”

Arriving at the Art Center for my first shift, the Chef David yelled at me, “what are you doing here?” – That was an unexpected welcome!  Alongside the kitchen brigade, I worked endless hours over three days, and when all was finished, I asked if I was getting paid. Chef David said, “we will see you next month.” Confused, I asked, “what do you mean?” With a winning smile, he answered,” you are starting your apprenticeship.” Astonished, I went back home to tell my parents, who were delighted for me. My dad encouraged me to give it a go, as I could always enroll in Uni afterward if it didn’t work out. That is where my culinary career began.

GK: How long did you stay at the Art Center?

I spend the first year of my apprenticeship working in a restaurant called Treble Clef, then moved on to the Caulfield Racecourse. I loved ​the excitement of working at the racecourse. The head chef, Odi, remembered me from my first days back at the MCG, and he took me under his wing. The kitchen was huge, and we were doing substantial upmarket events for the racing. While I was at Caulfield, Spotless Catering got the contract for the Formula One at Albert Park, and we split the catering between the two venues. When Formula One was on for the week, we would have to cater the food, and it would all be delivered to the site. I stayed here for a year, and then Spotlight transferred me to do my third and final year of the apprenticeship at Leonda by the Yarra, an upmarket function venue specializing in weddings. After a while, I wasn’t sure if catering for functions is what I wanted to do. Airing my growing frustration to my friend, Chef Louis he asked,” what are you doing? This is a function room, you are so talented, and you need to go out into the world and experience different food from different cultures.” I asked him, “how do I do this? “He goes, “you should go into a big hotel chain, because that way, you can travel around a lot and network.” 
 
After I finished my third year, I resigned and took a position at the Carlton Crest Hotel in Albert Park.

GK: Tell us about your time there.
 
Oh, dear, it was terrible. The Chef was this crazy Austrian guy named Alex. He put me through the mill, I couldn’t do anything right. The German sous chef, Dirk, was more friendly. I told him, “I can’t take this type of treatment, I want to quit.” Dirk said he was leaving soon and going back to work in Germany, he asked me if I wanted to come and work with him.  So, three months later, I was on my way to Germany to work in a 900-year-old castle for Chef Alex, who had earned himself two Michelin stars. Everything was in German, but lucky for me most German people learn English at school and could understand me. On my first day, they put me in the Larder section, and I remember I was making a salad, and I had one hand on the bench, and I was making the salad with the other. Alex came over screaming at me, “Why are you using one hand! You have two hands, use them!” To this day, I tell my staff that they are given two hands for a reason.

I learned a lot from Chef Alex, different techniques, how to cook game such as venison and wild boar, goose, and seasonal cooking. He changed the menu daily, and everything had to be perfect. I did two seasons there, and I loved it. I had met my girlfriend (and later wife) Silke in Germany, and we decided to move to London for work. I knew a lot of colleagues and friends from Melbourne who worked there, and my first position was at the Washington Hotel in Mayfair. The Chef Russell was incredible and had worked at many Michelin starred establishments. The hotel had been purchased by an affluent Indian gentleman who wanted to make a lot of changes. I stayed there for almost two years and then moved to the Rydges Hotel, which was near Kensington Palace. My friend Chris was the Executive Chef,, and he asked me if  I wanted to help him with the opening of the hotel. I stayed a year and then went to the Mayfair InterContinental. This was a challenging position, I was working under Chef Michael, who had trained under Paul Bocuse. I started off as a Chef de Partie and was later promoted to Sous Chef.  The year after, the hotel was purchased by the Radisson Group, and they began to downsize. I took the opportunity to move on to my first Head Chef position at the Novotel at Tower Bridge, part of the InterContinental group. I also got married while I was there, and it was at this time that my wife and I decided it was time to settle down, and we made plans to move to Australia.

GK: Did you have a position in advance?
 
No, my wife had been working at Gordon Ramsay’s at Claridge’s, and she was tired of the long hours. We both needed a break and decided to take some much-needed time off in Australia. She fell in love with the country, my parents, and my family and was happy to move here permanently with me. 
 
My first position after my return to Melbourne was at the Como Hotel in South Yarra. I had to take a step down a level, but then I met Chef Marcus from Crown Casino, and he offered me a position at Number 8 Restaurant and Wine Bar in Southbank, which is now the Fat Duck by Heston Blumenthal. I stayed there for two years. During the last few months, Marcus came to me and said: “there is a gentleman that would like to talk to you.” He was older and quite underdressed (not really adhering to the restaurant’s dress code). I asked him, “Is everything ok with the food?” and he answered, “I love coming here, I love what you are doing here. Would you like to come and work for me?” He told me that he was opening several restaurants under the brand Blue Fire Group and needed several Executive Chefs. I took the position and found myself jumping from restaurant to restaurant, helping with openings. This turned out rather stressful, long hours, and still not what I wanted, I longed to settle down and have more job security.

GK: When did you transition to the Golf world?

I left Blue Fire when I was offered a position at the Yarra Yarra Golf Club in Bentleigh, East Victoria. They had just renovated the clubhouse and wanted to change the culinary landscape. They wanted to move away from traditional food to more modern fare, plus a lot of functions and weddings, this is the direction they wanted to go. I don’t think I was ready for Golf at that time and after a short period at the club, I went back to the Blue Fire Group. They were opening 17 more restaurants and sent me to Brisbane to move dining/entertainment cruise boats there. I was not happy this time, and when I  had a disagreement with the owner, I walked away.
 
I planned to take six months off to be with my family – we were now proud parents of twins!
 
But one day out of the blue, a well-known Chef called me, and said, “I am opening Eureka Towers, and I am looking for a Chef, would you be interested?” I agreed, and it was a fantastic experience being on the 89th floor! The hours, however, were very long, and it was taking a toll on my family, I knew had to change my way of life. 
 
I took a job at the Royal Yacht Club of Victoria in Williamstown, and they were doing a significant renovation of the clubhouse. I wasn’t happy there either as I had to work two jobs to support my family. My second job was at Fenix for Gary Mehagan and his Chef Dan, whom I had worked with in Europe. He told me that The Royal Melbourne Golf Club was looking for a new Executive Chef.

GK: What year was that?
 
It was 2011. I went home to tell my wife about the position. She reminded me that I was getting older and needed to find a secure job and settle down. So, I sent in my resume and didn’t hear back for quite a few weeks. Then, Andrea Watson, the Assistant General Manager called: would I like to come in for an interview? After the meeting, I was sent to CEO Paul Rak’s office. Looking at him, I said,” I have seen you somewhere before, I just can’t think of where?” He immediately responded, “you are Charles’ nephew.” I was astonished! When I was 12 years old, my Uncle Charles used to be a cleaner at Royal Melbourne, and I would sometimes come to help him out and earn some extra cash. Mr. Rak remembered me from when I was cleaning he locker rooms: it was quite an emotional experience. 
 
After the interview, Andrea said it will take a few weeks before she’ll get back to me. I thought ok, and I got into my car to drive home. Not even five minutes later, she calls me back and says, “do you want the job?” I said, “Yes!” That was late 2011, and I have been here ever since.
 
GK: Tell us about your team.
 
It’s a fantastic place to work, I have a great team, and a lot of support from the management and I finally found my grounding. I am working for a professional organization with all the help I could wish for, and I feel like I have a second home. I do spend a lot of time here, but I really enjoy every day.
 
GK:How did you find the transition initially?
 
Coming from a restaurant background where it is very hectic and last minute, I found that I am more organized and calmer: there is no more screaming and shouting. People are not in a rush here, and they prefer things done correctly. I can access great produce that I usually couldn’t obtain elsewhere. I get to cook what I enjoy and try new creations for our members. I like a lot of comfort food but healthy and fresh. I want the members and guests to be relaxed, the Golf is stressful enough out there, so if they come in, with a bad mood and I can make them happy with a nice meal, whether it’s a sandwich or a five-course meal, I can leave at the end of the day feeling satisfied.
 
GK: When you started here, did you bring your own team?
 
The Head Chef had left, and the Women’s Australian Open had just finished. It was late October and the busiest time of the year with major events coming up. A week later, the sous chef left also, but luckily, I had quite a lot of connections, and I started to build my team.
 
GK: Tell us about your food style at Royal Melbourne.
 
I am classically French-trained, and I have a strong Asian influence as well. I keep things simple but with a twist. I enjoy taking old favorites and changing them around a bit.

GK: Do the members have an influence on the menu?
 
They do, and when I’m out in the clubhouse, they always let me know what they like. We have a lot of events here, which is good. I try a lot of things out, and the menu changes often. I enjoy coming up with new ideas, and so does my team. I love it when the members give their input, and I get to know what their palate is like. At Royal Melbourne, guests like to have lighter and healthier options.
 
GK: How has the menu changed from 2011 to now?
 
When I first started, there was a lot of deep-fried food, dense food, now it is much lighter and healthier, we have more salads and steamed items. We have a lot of older members, and they like smaller portion sizes, which is good for us. With smaller portions, we can have higher quality ingredients and be more creative.
 
GK: Tell us about the Presidents Cup?
 
We started to prepare for the Presidents Cup in 2017!
 
We want to highlight Australian and especially Victorian fare. I want the guests to experience what the members experience, and we have developed menus to showcase the flavors of the Australian Summer.
 
There will be two sections in the clubhouse, downstairs for the Members and their guests’ and upstairs for Presidents Cup Commissionaires Hospitality guests. We have been running the Sandringham Golf Course across the road and will be utilizing that area for parking. Eventually, that will become the home of Golf Australia and Golf Victoria and the home of Junior Golf Australia. Everyone at Royal Melbourne is excited to be a part of this incredible event.
 
GK: Tell us about your relationship with Mr. Rak? I know it was a challenging time for Royal Melbourne and Golf globally when he passed. How did he influence your time at Royal Melbourne?
 
He was a straightforward guy and very kind. He knew everyone at Royal Melbourne by name knew everyone at Royal Melbourne by name right down to the dishwasher. He knew my kids’ names and kept up with what they were doing with their schooling and free time. He always found the time to get to know the staff and genuinely wanted to know about their lives and dreams. He was always the first person here, even when I thought I was here first, he was still here before me. One time I got in before five am. and he was already here, I asked, “what are you doing here so early?” He answered, “waiting for you.” Then he made us both a coffee, and he sat in the kitchen to hear about my days’ plans. It didn’t matter how bad my day was as he always supported me, and that made me feel confident.
 
GK: What was his influence over the menu?
 
He allowed me to create the menu’s, but he did not like mushrooms at all. He would have lunch with the staff every day and enjoyed the family and club atmosphere. He could eat at any restaurant in the world, but Royal Melbourne was home to him, and we were all his family. He is sorely missed.
 
GK: Anything else you care to share with us?
 
I am at the club for many hours, and without the love and encouragement of my wife, Silka and my children, and the support of my parents, sister and extended family, it would not be possible.

I would also like to acknowledge and thank all the team at The Royal Melbourne Golf Club, friends and chefs who have worked with me through the years. It’s been an incredible journey so far, and I look forward to more culinary adventures to come.

Thank you.

Serves 12

Ingredients

Chocolate Biscuit

• 262 grams Egg Whites (fresh)
• 45 grams Castor Sugar  
• 28 grams Egg Yolks (fresh)
• 14 grams Cocoa Powder     

Chocolate Mousse 

• 25 grams Milk (full cream)
• 200 grams Heavy Cream
• 200 grams 58% Chocolate
• 6 sheets Gelatin (bloomed)
• 3 packages Raspberries

Raspberry Mousse 

• 2 sheets Gelatin (bloomed) 
• 5 ounces Water
• 1 cup Heavy Cream 
• ½ teaspoon Vanilla Bean Paste 
• 1# Raspberry Puree
• 4 ounces Egg Whites
• 4.5 ounces Castor Sugar

Raspberry Gelee 

• 2 sheets Gelatin (bloomed) 
• 200 grams Raspberry Puree
• 45 grams Castor Sugar
• 20 grams Water

Raspberry Sorbet

• 535 grams Raspberry Puree
• 125 grams Glucose Powder
• 513 grams Sugar
• 9 grams Sorbet Stabilizer
• 536 grams Water

Garnish

• Chocolate Ganache
• Chocolate Curls
• Dark Chocolate Ganache
• Cocoa Nibs
• Gold Leaf

Preparation

Chocolate Biscuit
Lightly oil one-half sized sheet of a Silpat, silicone, nonstick baking mat. Set onto a half-sized sheet pan.   
Whip the egg whites and sugar to a meringue, when the peaks become stiff, finish on a low speed. 
Whisk yolks until they blend together. Fold the yolks and cocoa into the meringue. 
Put 400 grams onto the silpat mat and level.  Bake in a convection oven at 350 F for 8-10 mins.
When the cake comes out of the oven, allow it to cool.  
Place a frame on top of the baked biscuit. 
Chef Note: Now you will be able to build your entremet.  
Set aside until assembling layers.

Chocolate Mousse
Slice the raspberries in half and set aside.
Put the chocolate into a stainless steel bowl.  
In a saucepan bring the milk and cream to a boil. Pour over the chocolate, and mix well with an emersion blender, then add the bloomed gelatin. 
Chef Note: Be sure the chocolate is still warm when you add the bloomed gelatin.
Cool down, but do not wait for it to set. 
Pour the mousse into the frame lined with chocolate biscuit. Immediately line the raspberries across the entire layer of mousse standing upright, shoulder to shoulder.
Freeze sheet until the raspberry mousse layer is ready.

Raspberry Mousse  
Bloom the gelatin in water.
Whip the heavy cream to form medium peaks, cover and refrigerate.
Warm 4 ounces of the raspberry puree in a saucepan.  Remove from heat.
Melt the gelatin and stir to incorporate. Blend in the remaining puree.
Combine the whites and sugar in a mixing bowl, set over a double boiler, stir constantly with wire whip until 145F.
Transfer to the mixer and whip at high speed until stiff peaks form. 
Continue beating until the meringue has completely cooled.
Cool the puree, gelatin mixture to 70F.
Gently blend 1/3 of the meringue into the puree mixture to lighten it.  Fold in the remaining meringue until it is thoroughly blended.
Fold in the whipped cream and pour on top of the raspberries in the frame and level.  Re-freeze.

Raspberry Gelee
Soak gelatin in ice water until softened.  Squeeze out excess water and set aside.
In a small pot, bring puree, sugar, and water to a boil.  Stir in gelatin to dissolve. 
Allow to cool to room temperature and pour immediately on top of the raspberry mousse in the frame.  Re-freeze for 8 hours before cutting.

Raspberry Sorbet
Combine all the dry ingredients into a bowl.  
Place the water in a pot over a high heat and bring to 104 F . Pour in the dry ingredients.  Whisk constantly.  
Bring the mixture to a boil and maintain for 2 mins. Remove from heat and chill down to 39F.  
Refrigerate to mature for 2 hours, ideally 6 hours.  
Spin ice cream in machine following manufacturer’s procedures.
Combine the whites and sugar in a mixing bowl, set over a double boiler, stir constantly with wire whip until 145F.
Transfer to the mixer and whip at high speed until stiff peaks form. 
Continue beating until the meringue has completely cooled.
Cool the puree, gelatin mixture to 70F.
Gently blend 1/3 of the meringue into the puree mixture to lighten it.  Fold in the remaining meringue until it is thoroughly blended.
Fold in the whipped cream and pour on top of the raspberries in the frame and level.  Re-freeze.

Raspberry Gelee
Soak gelatin in ice water until softened.  Squeeze out excess water and set aside.
In a small pot, bring puree, sugar, and water to a boil.  Stir in gelatin to dissolve. 
Allow to cool to room temperature and pour immediately on top of the raspberry mousse in the frame.  Re-freeze for 8 hours before cutting.

Raspberry Sorbet
Combine all the dry ingredients into a bowl.  
Place the water in a pot over a high heat and bring to 104 F . Pour in the dry ingredients.  Whisk constantly.  
Bring the mixture to a boil and maintain for 2 mins. Remove from heat and chill down to 39F.  
Refrigerate to mature for 2 hours, ideally 6 hours.  
Spin ice cream in machine following manufacturer’s procedures.

Assembly

Unmold frame from freezer and cut with hot water and a knife.  
Cut entremet 1 ½” x 3 ½” (allow 10 minutes to temper once sliced before serving)
Place raspberry gelee on the plate.
Quenelle the raspberry sorbet and rest on a bed of cocoa nibs.
Garnish with gold leaf, fresh raspberries and chocolate curls.

Kingston Heath's take on a classic cocktail.

Makes 10

Ingredients – Part One

• 300 grams Belcolade Dark Chocolate Buttons
• 90 milliliters Water 
• 60 grams Glucose Syrup 
• 400 milliliters Pouring Cream 
• 2 1/2 Silver Gelatine Leaves
• 25 milliliters Vodka
• 25 milliliters Kahlua 

Preparation - Part One

Place chocolate buttons over low heat in a double boiler until melted.
Semi whip cream and set aside.
Place glucose and water in suitable size pot and bring to boil.
Combine the two and whisk until lump-free, stir in Vodka and Kahlua.
Place gelatine leaves in cold water until semi dissolved, drain most of the water then dissolve over low heat until melted with no lumps.
Mix into the chocolate.
Fold in the semi whipped cream
Pour/ladle into Martini or Champagne glasses,  1 cm from the top – gently tap down so its level.
Place into the fridge and start Part Two.

Ingredients – Part Two

• Double shot of Fresh Espresso Coffee
• 50 grams Caster sugar 
• 2 Egg Yolks 
• 150 milliliters Pouring Cream 
• 2 Silver Gelatine Leaves silver 

Preparation - Part Two

Semi whip cream and set aside until later.
Boil the shot of coffee with ½ of the sugar for 2 minutes, let cool down.
In a bowl whisk the egg yolks with remaining sugar until dissolved.
Add the espresso to the egg mixture and cook over a double boiler on low heat until temperature reaches 60c.
Add the dissolved gelatine leaves, when cool, fold in semi whipped cream.

Assembly

When part one is set, pour part two over the top.
Garnish with 3 coffee beans, as per photo.

Ingredients

Compressed Fennel
(Yields 10 Portions)
•    5 Fennel Branches (the green stalk removed from the bulb and trimmed of all leaves)
•   1 tablespoon Pernod Liqueur
•   2 tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil
•   1 teaspoon Orange Zest
•   Fennel Fronds (reserved for garnish)

Scallop Ceviche
(Yields 10 Portions)
•    1 pound 10/20 Dry Scallops (cleaned and mussels removed)
•    2 Green Tomatoes (small diced)
•    2 Shallots (minced)
•    ½ Jalapeno Pepper (minced)
•    ⅓ cup Lime Juice (fresh squeezed)
•    ¾ cup Blood Orange Juice (fresh squeezed)
•    1 Grapefruit (zested, zest minced)
•    1 ½ teaspoon Sea Salt
•    2 tablespoons Fresh Cilantro (chopped)

Crispy Oysters
(Yields 10 Portions)
•    30 Oysters, Shucked and Removed from Shell (reserve shells and wash thoroughly). Chef Note: We run ours through the dishwasher
•    1 cup All Purpose Flour
•    ½ cup Evercrisp Breader & Batter Boost 
•    24 ounces Beer
•    ½ teaspoon Salt

Garnish
•   4 cups Rock Salt (tossed with pink peppercorns, fennel seed, and black peppercorns)
•   Micro Cilantro
•   Reserved Oyster Shells
•   Fennel Fronds
•   Extra Virgin Olive Oil in a Squeeze Bottle

Preparation

Compressed Fennel
Place all the ingredients in a food saver bag and vacuum seal overnight.
Remove the fennel branches and thinly slice before serving.

Scallop Ceviche
Mix all of the ingredients in bowl and chill for 4 to 6 hours, stirring occasionally. 
Season to taste before serving and hold on ice in a refrigerator.

Crispy Oysters
Shuck all oysters into a bowl,  be sure to remove all the meat from the shell completely. Keep chilled until needed. 
Wash the oyster shells and reserve for service.
In a mixing bowl combine the flour, Evercrisp Breader & Batter Boost, beer, and salt. Wisk to combine and set aside for service. 
Chef Note: This mixture should be prepared as close to serving as possible. 

Assembly

Evenly distribute the rock salt mixture onto 10 small plates.
Place 3 empty oyster shells onto the salt to hold them in place. 
Spoon the scallop ceviche into the oyster shells, making sure to get some blood orange segments into each shell.
Quickly dip the oysters into the beer batter and fry for about 45 seconds at 375 degrees F, remove oysters once they are brown and crispy and drain on a paper towel to remove any oil residue. Season with salt and pepper.
Place the crispy oysters on top of the scallop ceviche.
Garnish with the compressed fennel slices, micro cilantro, and fennel fronds.
Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and serve immediately with a small cocktail fork. 

.I was introduced to Royal Poinciana Golf Club by Scott Garvin, the General Manager at Naples National Golf Club, Florida. Garvin had recently toured the club and was taken aback by the kitchen rebuild as well as the culinary team. I took his advice and headed to Naples. Scott Haegele the Director of Culinary Operations at RP gave me a tour of what I can only call - every chef’s dream kitchen. ~ Diana DeLucia

GK: Scott, where did you grow up, and what influenced your culinary aspirations?

I grew up in Damascus, Maryland, in the most northern part of Montgomery County. It was a tiny dry town with a lot of farms and churches. My mom always cooked and from a very young age, I would watch her, and then I would emulate what she did visually. Eventually, I was able to cook dinner, and I enjoyed working at the stove. I was still in school when I started working in a small mom and pop restaurant, and coming from Maryland, they cooked seafood and steamed blue crabs. That’s where I began my career; I loved interacting with people and learning about the restaurant business. I started out washing pots, and I worked my way up through the kitchen. I did that through high school. I had no desire to go to college, that wasn’t my path, but my sister said, “you know, I know this guy, he went to culinary school, and maybe it’s something you should consider doing.” I took my sister’s advice and enrolled at Baltimore’s International Culinary College. I did a two-year program there. I had a natural knack for cooking, and I wanted to continue to learn and do an apprenticeship program. I looked at Hotel Hershey, I looked at The Greenbrier and interviewed at both, and I chose the Greenbrier. The Greenbrier is an extraordinary place, and I loved the culture and the hills of West Virginia. When I was very young, I was told, “you don’t get good to work in good places, you work in good places to get good.” There’s much humility in that. You have to work hard, you must be able to take criticism well, and when you get knocked down, you get back up and keep driving forward. Many chefs come out of the Greenbrier and are doing well in the industry. 

GK: What was one of the essential lessons that you learned at the Greenbrier?

The Greenbrier is where I learned how to cook and sharpened my culinary fundamentals. The hotel is a great training environment for an aspiring chef. The hotels back of house was extremely large and the processes of moving things around the kitchen are vitally important. How do you move goods coming in, food going out, people, dishes, equipment, you know, where’s it all stored, what’s the flow of how we do business every day? I learned all of this at the Greenbrier.  In any good resort or hotel, you shouldn’t see your dirty laundry. We know great things are going on behind the doors, but we don’t know how it happens when you’re sitting in the dining room from a guest’s perspective or a five-star, five-diamond perspective. When they come and inspect your hotel or your operation, it should be flawless. It shouldn’t be, “oh, I see the broom in the corner where you’re going to clean up later.” Everything should be impeccable. 

GK: How long did you stay at the Greenbrier? 

Eight years. I did my apprenticeship for two years, and then I worked through the ranks of the kitchen to sous chef. I left the Greenbrier in my late 20’s and headed to New York City. I have always taken the posture of a student and thought that working in Manhattan would be a good training ground. I first worked at the iconic Tavern on the Green restaurant. It was a culture shock coming from the hills of West Virginia, and I took the position of Executive Sous Chef. The restaurant was bustling and gave new meaning to the term high volume. We did omelets for 1000 people every Sunday brunch off the a la carte line, and the French Fries were hand-cut, we would fill 50-gallon rubber trash cans with cut fries and soak them in water until we had to cook them. The owner at the time was Warren LeRoy; he was a shrewd businessman. It was my first experience working in a multi-culture kitchen, and I loved the people I worked with. 

My second stop in the big apple was at the famed Waldorf-Astoria hotel. I worked in the fine dining restaurant Peacock Alley for Chef Laurent Gras, he was a French chef with Michelin experience, and he was Alain Ducasse’ Chef de cuisine. Laurent was super talented and worked every day in the kitchen. His station was right in front of me, which was a little nerve-racking. His food was classic French with much influence from Ducasse. We worked with the best ingredients, such as Osteria caviar, fresh truffles, and foie gras. I respected Laurent’s work ethic; if a cook called off work, he would work the station himself. He worked meticulously clean and efficiently; there was no margin for error with Laurent. He taught me how to cook refined food and the focus that is required in that environment. His kitchen was spotless, and we spent as much time cleaning as we did preparing food. My only regret is that I didn’t spend more time working with him, but this experience left an indelible impression on me about cooking food at a high level and the commitment it requires.
 
After leaving New York, I returned to the Greenbrier to be the Chef of the Tavern Room, which was the hotels fine dining outlet. During my two years there the restaurant was awarded the 4 Star Forbes rating. This was an accomplishment I was proud of and owed to my previous mentors.

My formative years working in quality environments prepared me to join my mentor John Johnstone once again. I took the position as the executive sous chef during the opening of the Ritz Carlton at Reynolds Plantation in Greensboro, Georgia, and after a year I became the Executive Chef.

It was the Ritz Carlton that taught me how influential culture is at a resort or hotel. There must be guiding principles. Although you had your department, everybody had each other’s backs. If I needed help from another department, we made it happen. It was a reciprocal relationship; we did whatever we needed to do to ensure the guests had a great experience. I appreciated the array of incredibly smart people in that company. Steven Freund was the General Manager at the time, and he was a great man. He had humility, and this executive presence, he knew every person by name and had a genuine interest in helping people grow in the front or back of the house. 

After five years at Reynolds Plantation, I took an ambitious position at Casa Marina, which at the time was an LXR property owned by Blackstone in Key West, Florida. They had invested heavily and redid the entire property. My position was the Food and Beverage Director / Chef. It was here that I learned how to set up a restaurant from scratch; I learned how to plan the flow of service during the design stages. The General Manager was Kevin Speidel was from New Jersey and was the captain of the wrestling team, that was his persona, he was a go, go, go, guy! Kevin took no excuses, but he was also very fair, if he ever called you out, it was the truth; he cared about making things better. No matter what you do in life, long term, it may not be what you want to do, but I think some people come into your life that you learn from and you have to be open-minded enough and humble enough to, to see where your defects are to improve. My biggest takeaway from Casa Marina was the front of the house experience. I learned how to manage the international staff who were all on H-2B visas. I was working with people from all over the world whom all came from different cultures; it was great. 

GK: When did you join the club industry?

I took a position with Club Corp at the Citrus Club in Orlando; it was at the top of the Citrus Center and had 360-degree window views, it was beautiful, but for me, it was a city club, and I needed to continue to grow. 

GK: How did you land at Augusta National?

In 2011, John Johnstone gave me a call and said that Augusta National was going through a tremendous growth spurt. John Johnstone is, in my opinion, one of the best Food and Beverage professionals I have ever worked with, and I owe him a debt of gratitude for nurturing me in my career.  Everything about Augusta National is about growing the game of golf. What’s unique about the place is that people have worked there for their entire career. They grew up across the street, and they have seen the town and club evolve, they’ve been a part of that, and they take much pride in working there. The tenured staff are true ambassadors of the community. To make significant changes for the club and the tournament, they had the vision and foresight to see that they needed to bring in professionals that knew how to manage the expansion. 

Full interview in the new biannual issue of Golf Kitchen Magazine

​Michael Ruggiero has spent his 25-year culinary career working with great chefs and has traveled extensively to countries like Peru, France, and Japan to expand his culinary knowledge. His mentor of ten years Edward Leonard CMC (Certified Master Chef) is currently the Executive Chef at the Polo Club in Boca Raton, and a well-known speaker at industry events.~ Diana DeLucia

GK: You grew up in Queens, how did that influence your career?

My parents owned an Italian deli "Roman Carousel" in Rosedale, Queens, New York. As I was growing up, I watched my father make all these Italian specialties and my Mom cook Italian catered foods in the kitchen.  My grandma lived above McSorley's Old Ale House on East 7th Street, and on Sundays, she would prepare these long, lavish dinners in her tiny little apartment, with the table extending through this shotgun apartment for all the family in attendance.  My grandma would start the meal with antipasti, then meatballs and sauce, and even handmade pasta. She'd make pizza dough and veal and peppers, it was this long ceremony of dining. Even with all of this exposure to food early on, oddly enough, I was a bit of a picky eater! That fussiness almost certainly fueled my passion for cooking and with the best ingredients even more. 

After high school, I enrolled at the CIA (Culinary Institute of America) in Hyde Park, New York. It was about 1995, which was around the time the Food Network started to become popular, and this youth movement of students started going to culinary school straight from High School. I was one of the younger kids, amongst others in my class, as many students were older with previous culinary experience or already an established chef. I believe having a formal culinary education early in my career helped me get a jumpstart in the industry. It was a tough learning curve so green at the beginning at the CIA, but I was very fortunate to have great classmates and professors to learn with and from, and I was always determined to go above and beyond and make the sacrifices to improve myself.

After graduation in August of 1997, I bounced around a bit as a cook until I met one of my first mentors, Brian Limitone who worked at a little Italian Bistro at the Redding train station called La Trattoria in Connecticut. I was looking for a job, and I walked in the back door, and I remember him giving me this look, like "What are you doing in here!?" Little did he know that he was getting the gift of a hungry CIA graduate looking for work, knowledge, and as much experience, I could soak up! 

When he hired me, I was 20, and I can honestly say that working with someone of his skill set at an early part in my career was a tremendous experience and just what I needed as a young cook. His flavors and techniques in making soups, braises, sauces, curing salmon, and making desserts, was very attractive to me, I was learning trial by fire at the same time, but the professionalism and standards that I learned in the two years with him at La Trattoria was a fantastic experience. I will always look upon those early days with fond happiness. 

After working with Brian, I moved on to a new position at Food First, an upscale corporate cafeteria, which was co-owned by Edward Leonard CMC.  After a couple of years of working in various roles including Head Chef at Duracell (at the time) the company was sold, Chef Edward was moving on to open a fine-dining Italian Restaurant named Cantare in Downtown Chicago.

In hindsight, I felt fortunate that Chef Edward invited me to join him as we didn't have much of a relationship before that. He was in charge of the entire company which had locations all over Connecticut with dozens of head chefs to choose from. He also asked my colleague and friend, Matt Roche, another head chef from one of his units, to come to Chicago and work with him as a sous chef and open the restaurant.  

After two years in Chicago, I moved with Chef Edward, to Rye, New York to become his Executive Sous Chef at Westchester Country Club. It was the next step in my career, and really an incomparable experience. The collection of talent in the kitchens that Chef Edward put together was full of future CMCs, CEC's, executive chefs, and pastry chefs. I was present for all of the ACF  (American Culinary Federation) Culinary Olympic Team practices, and being a part of their brainstorming sessions was just an experience that is near impossible to duplicate. Combine that with the size and pressure of running a food program with the sheer amount of functions daily at the golf course, beach club, and the clubhouse was detailed and intense. I was just getting this first-class experience in so many avenues of foodservice and hospitality. I can't say enough about the people that I met and the friendships that I have to this day with the culinary team that I worked with at Westchester Country Club.

GK: Tell us about your first position as Executive Chef.

After four seasons at Westchester Country Club,  I was ready to take on my own kitchen. I accepted the position as executive chef at the Orienta Beach Club in Mamaroneck, New York. In the six and a half years that I was there, I had the opportunity to be involved with many of the expansions and remodeling of the club, from the clubhouse to the beach. They renovated the snack bar, parts of the clubhouse, the cabanas, and to have an opportunity to renovate the kitchen, including the selection of all of the china, glass, and silverware, was a great learning experience. The Orienta membership, the kitchen staff, and General Manager Mark Sheehan were great to work with, and I enjoyed my time there immensely. 

GK: What lead you to the Tuxedo Club?

During my final season at Orienta Beach Club, I became a father. It was winter, and I decided to take a year off to spend time with my wife Denise and our son Carter. I wanted to watch Carter take his first steps and to take a break from the 60+ hour work weeks. 

We moved to my wife's home state of Louisiana, and I took a job in a shipyard for a year. The job involved bidding and estimating on the repair, and painting of 200-foot service vessels in the oil industry. It wasn't my field, but as a chef, many of the same components could be used to be successful in this new endeavor. We do estimates and financials daily and make contracts, manage groups of people under duress with tight deadlines. I applied my knowledge to a different area, and within six months, I was running the department. You can be successful in many things if you put forth the effort and have a can-do attitude. When March came around the following year, I felt that I had been away from the stove for too long. I sent out my resume to the club openings, and after a long process of interviews and tastings, I accepted the Executive Chef position at The Tuxedo Club in New York.  

GK: How long did you work at The Tuxedo Club?

I worked there for three seasons, and during my last year, I became the Culinary Director. This was an excellent position and experience, and I recommend it to every chef because you learn the challenges from the other side of the business. 

GK: Tell us about your experience.  

Having the opportunity to anticipate the needs of the membership a-la-minute in the dining room as well as learning the flow of the setup and breakdown of events is advantageous. Learning about the wine program and the ever-changing needs of the front of the house staff during multiple functions that are taking place simultaneously also gives you more depth as a chef. When you have a clear idea of both the front and back of the house, it helps you to understand the flow of the business and its ever-changing needs. 

GK: Tell us about GlenArbor.

I was 41 when I began my role as the Executive Chef in 2017 when former Executive Chef Carey Favreau ended his long successful tenure to start his own business. Carey had been the only chef that the members had known, he was like a family member to them. 

GK: How did you find the transition?

Usually, when a new chef begins, the previous chef had been let go, or the program was not at a level that the membership preferred. At GlenArbor, I was walking into a place where they had only known one chef, and he was beloved by the members and the staff. It is now my job to continue the continuity of his success. I had to look at things from a different angle than usual. I felt that coming in, I needed to honor the culinary traditions of the club and the imprint Carey had left.  Over time with consistent, thoughtful creativity, I could add my influences, add my flavor profiles into the program where it made sense, and eventually, I would have this new hybrid of old and new ideas and club classics.  It would be subtle with no break in continuity or quality, no break from the synergy, or the success that was already in place. I'm now in my second season, and I love it.

​Full interview will appear in the first edition of the new biannual Golf Kitchen Magazine and Golf Kitchen Americas, the second book in the Golf Kitchen series.  Preorders available.